Find a library that carries the ALLDATA data base. They have a very good description of the technique involved. You will have to remove the upper intake manifold. This also requires the separation of fuel injection fuel lines. By the way, this is really an Opel/Saab V6, if you didn't know. Perhaps all you really need is flush and fill of the coolant. DON%26quot;T use the GM dexcool, use the Saab coolant or Ford Yellow coolant. SEE the %26quot;dexcoolsettlement%26quot; web-site and the other %26quot;GM Litigation%26quot; web-sites. Good luck!!
How do i change the thermostat on a 1998 Cadillac Catera?
Look in the book. Do what it says. You can find Chiltons Auto Repair manuals at the public library. It's not enough to say, %26quot;Take out the old thermostat and put a new one in and replace the gasket%26quot;. The pictures in the maual can better show you where the parts are than for you to be told to look here and there.
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
I have an accord 96 that has 100,000kms on it. had an oil change recently.
A few days after this oil change, I had an overheat and after this overheat, the oil pressure warning light started acting eratically.
First, after a cold start, the light does not turn on but after the engine warms up, the light flashes. The problem is, while revving the engine, the light goes off and immediately goes on again when the engine is idle.
To address my original problem, mechanics informed me that they would change the oil sending unit, change thermostat valve and thermostat switch.
After this, the problem was still the same (light goes off with revving). They recommended a general overhaul for the reason that the engine had so much sludge and they blamed the problem on the engine flush that was included during the change oil.
Now, i really dont know what to do next. General overhaul is too expensive for my budget.. Any tips?
Thanks very much!
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
the first and obvious question is--have you checked the oil level recently? I've seen drain bolts leak on Hondas if you don't change the washer for the plug and you could legitimately have a low oil condition. so thats the first thing to do.
then, if the oil is full, have your technician put an oil pressure gauge on the car to run a pressure test. That will tell you if the problem is a mechanical one (oil pump) or an electrical one (sending unit/gauge). Your description sounds like a mechanical problem with the oil pump. If the car does have low oil pressure, then the next thing to do is to have the oil pan removed to check the oil pick up for the oil pump. If it is clogged they can clean it. If not, then you'll have to change the pump.
accords are not known to generate a lot of sludge unless the oil is never changed. the engine flushes rarely provide any value.
hope that helps
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
Your oil pump is going bad. what is happening it is not pumping enough oil at idle and triggering your light. an easy way to check is get an oil pressure gauge, hook it up at make sure, this can have disasterous effects on your engine if not taken care of IMMEDIETLY.
Honda's are not known for sludge unless you don't change the oil at all.
Does the car have oil in it?
Could be the pump going bad...or the sending unit may not be reading correctly...or as simple as it wasn't wired correctly.
We had one that was triggered by the e-brake and just had to rewire it.
Sounds like the oil pump though and if it is and its not fixed its a good way to blow up a motor when it eventually freezes up.
A few days after this oil change, I had an overheat and after this overheat, the oil pressure warning light started acting eratically.
First, after a cold start, the light does not turn on but after the engine warms up, the light flashes. The problem is, while revving the engine, the light goes off and immediately goes on again when the engine is idle.
To address my original problem, mechanics informed me that they would change the oil sending unit, change thermostat valve and thermostat switch.
After this, the problem was still the same (light goes off with revving). They recommended a general overhaul for the reason that the engine had so much sludge and they blamed the problem on the engine flush that was included during the change oil.
Now, i really dont know what to do next. General overhaul is too expensive for my budget.. Any tips?
Thanks very much!
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
the first and obvious question is--have you checked the oil level recently? I've seen drain bolts leak on Hondas if you don't change the washer for the plug and you could legitimately have a low oil condition. so thats the first thing to do.
then, if the oil is full, have your technician put an oil pressure gauge on the car to run a pressure test. That will tell you if the problem is a mechanical one (oil pump) or an electrical one (sending unit/gauge). Your description sounds like a mechanical problem with the oil pump. If the car does have low oil pressure, then the next thing to do is to have the oil pan removed to check the oil pick up for the oil pump. If it is clogged they can clean it. If not, then you'll have to change the pump.
accords are not known to generate a lot of sludge unless the oil is never changed. the engine flushes rarely provide any value.
hope that helps
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
Your oil pump is going bad. what is happening it is not pumping enough oil at idle and triggering your light. an easy way to check is get an oil pressure gauge, hook it up at make sure, this can have disasterous effects on your engine if not taken care of IMMEDIETLY.
Honda's are not known for sludge unless you don't change the oil at all.
Does the car have oil in it?
Could be the pump going bad...or the sending unit may not be reading correctly...or as simple as it wasn't wired correctly.
We had one that was triggered by the e-brake and just had to rewire it.
Sounds like the oil pump though and if it is and its not fixed its a good way to blow up a motor when it eventually freezes up.
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 4.6 Liter 84,000 miles. The truck takes forever to heat up, when it does I get hot heat, but then the temp gauge starts to drop and the heat goes cold. Sometimes the gauge doesn't drop and the heat goes cold. The gauge never goes beyond about a quarter of the way up. The blower works. I changed the thermostat, what I thought was the most obvious for what seems to be over cooling, but the problem still exists. I checked all lines and fluid is flowing through the heater core as well. At a complete loss??????
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
Check and fill the Coolant again and into the radiator, because there is a giant air bubble that moves around after you drain and then refill the coolant once. Sometimes on my truck the coolant dows not flow from the plastic overflow reservoir into the radiator, that's why I said to fill the radiator directly again.
I think the factory thermostat rating is about 195 degrees or so, so check the package.
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
Is the heater core plugged? Or the lines to it?cute myspace pc or mac
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
Check and fill the Coolant again and into the radiator, because there is a giant air bubble that moves around after you drain and then refill the coolant once. Sometimes on my truck the coolant dows not flow from the plastic overflow reservoir into the radiator, that's why I said to fill the radiator directly again.
I think the factory thermostat rating is about 195 degrees or so, so check the package.
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
Is the heater core plugged? Or the lines to it?
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
I have gone off grid and dont have power from utility company anymore but cant supply enough power yet for 220 volt. I want to convert my water heater to 110 volt. Can I put a 110 volt screw in type element in place of a 220 volt element? Do I also need to change thermostat too?
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
Do not listen to any one of these people who say that you can't do this.They do not know about electricity or water heaters.You will NOT have to change thermostats.The only change that will have to be made after the element is changed is the breaker in the panel.You will have to change it to a single pole breaker[single pole 30 amp] and one of the wires will have to be connected to the neutral bar.Also make sure that the element that you get is not larger than 2500 watts.It will take longer to heat the water but it will work.A 2500 watt element at 120 volts will draw 20.4 amps.Is your generator large enough for this?
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
No, you cant do that without switching all kinds of stuff.... cheaper to buy a 110v water heater.
If you're off-grid, the voltage may not be your only issue. Do you have enough power (watts) available to heat the water? Remember that to heat the water energy is added; the energy is provided from electricity. Even a small 6 gallon 120V water heater uses about 1400W of power. Most 40 gallon, 240V units use about 6000W. Switching from a 240V coil to a 120V coil won't change the power needed to heat the water - but will require twice the current (Power = Voltage X Current). A solar water heater with powered temperature maintenance may be a better choice for you.
no
No, but you can use a 220V element in either one. The same thermostat can be used for either.
I have seen a lot of jury-rigged things in my day. Remeber though, that you're dealing with electricity and water. Play it safe and get a 110 volt water heater.
If the water heater has a 220v power supply, your element will burn out.
After conversion to 110v power supply, your element will work but the thermostat also has to be changed.
It will take a longer time to heat the water say 40-gallon type especially when the demand is highest in the mornings. It all depends on how many people live in your house (including very small children), whether you take bath or shower, whether the dishwasher runs in the mornings and if the clothes washer also will run say, in the weekends. If you have small babies, the demand is ever more because of beddings, clothes and other things that comes with the bringing up a small child.
All this put a heavy demand and the water heater will find it difficult to keep up.
If it fits, Probably OK but you must also change the power source to 110V.
In most cases the thermostat is only a switch and should be OK.
Note also that the power consumption in watts would be the same for the same BTU.
-
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
Do not listen to any one of these people who say that you can't do this.They do not know about electricity or water heaters.You will NOT have to change thermostats.The only change that will have to be made after the element is changed is the breaker in the panel.You will have to change it to a single pole breaker[single pole 30 amp] and one of the wires will have to be connected to the neutral bar.Also make sure that the element that you get is not larger than 2500 watts.It will take longer to heat the water but it will work.A 2500 watt element at 120 volts will draw 20.4 amps.Is your generator large enough for this?
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
No, you cant do that without switching all kinds of stuff.... cheaper to buy a 110v water heater.
If you're off-grid, the voltage may not be your only issue. Do you have enough power (watts) available to heat the water? Remember that to heat the water energy is added; the energy is provided from electricity. Even a small 6 gallon 120V water heater uses about 1400W of power. Most 40 gallon, 240V units use about 6000W. Switching from a 240V coil to a 120V coil won't change the power needed to heat the water - but will require twice the current (Power = Voltage X Current). A solar water heater with powered temperature maintenance may be a better choice for you.
no
No, but you can use a 220V element in either one. The same thermostat can be used for either.
I have seen a lot of jury-rigged things in my day. Remeber though, that you're dealing with electricity and water. Play it safe and get a 110 volt water heater.
If the water heater has a 220v power supply, your element will burn out.
After conversion to 110v power supply, your element will work but the thermostat also has to be changed.
It will take a longer time to heat the water say 40-gallon type especially when the demand is highest in the mornings. It all depends on how many people live in your house (including very small children), whether you take bath or shower, whether the dishwasher runs in the mornings and if the clothes washer also will run say, in the weekends. If you have small babies, the demand is ever more because of beddings, clothes and other things that comes with the bringing up a small child.
All this put a heavy demand and the water heater will find it difficult to keep up.
If it fits, Probably OK but you must also change the power source to 110V.
In most cases the thermostat is only a switch and should be OK.
Note also that the power consumption in watts would be the same for the same BTU.
-
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
Hi can anyone help? I've noticed as the weather is getting colder the heater in my wee van is blowing cold air. I've checked the water level, fitted a new thermostat, with no effect. I can get a slight heat if I set the temp at max and the blower at min, but nothing to speak of. The van temperature gauge does not overheat. no sign of any emulsification in the radiator water. I've tried squeezing the heater hose in case there is an air lock. Still wont work.
Please someone help before I freeze to death.
Frank Mc
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
Is the linkage to the heater Matrix connected ?
Is the Matrix air locked ? bleed
are the shutters letting air into car open ?
squeezing pipes will not work.
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
I assume the heater hoses are cool rather than hot.
My old Escort van had a little air vent in the heater hose to allow you to get rid of air locks. If yours doesn't have one, disconnect both hoses %26amp; flush through the heater matrix with a hosepipe. Refill the cooling system by parking the van on as steep an uphill slope as you can (or use ramps). This should keep the heater hoses full.
I've done a little research to determine the components used in this particular heater system. Being that I am from America and we don't have Escort Vans, I will have to rely on service maunual to determine how the heater system operates. The previous answers are very good suggestions. In my experience most of the time this condition is caused by lack of coolant flow to the heater core. This can be caused by a couple of different reason. First, an airlock in the system, which can usually easily be corrected by bleeding the coolant system. This bleeder screw will normall be located on top of the engine somewhere around the thermostat housing/upper radiatior hose. In short, ensure that the cooling system is actually full. Start the vehichle, remove the raditor cap, turn on the heater to full speed and temperature, and allow to reach operating temperature, After preparing the system to fill, begin filling at the radiator. Once the engine has reached operating temperature, the thermostat should open and any air pockets should be forced back out of the system. After ensuring the system is full, replace the radiator cap, and check the heater output temperature. If it is still not producing the desired output temperature. Place you hand on the Intake and Output hose of the heater core. If the system is working properly both should be fairly hot. Almost too hot to keep your hand on the hose very long. If both hoses are not hot, you have one of two problems. Either the heater core has an air pocket causing an air lock or from the research I have done, the heater control valve is not allowing the proper flow through the heater core. I believe this is a project that you will need to check these items and get back with me with what you found. I will be more than happy to walk you through the repair process to get your heater working. I don't think this is a serious or expensive repair, but you do need the knowledge to know what to check and how to correct the problem when we find it.
Good luck and Hope to hear from you soon,
it's the the valve that switches between cold and hot air as you turn the temp dial, i can't remember what the exact name of it is. The screw that it piviots on will have seized, it's a common fault on lots of Fords.
they call it blend door, yours might be cable operated ,check the cable when you move the temperature knob,feel if there is resistance,,some times the lock that hold the cable just come off making the blend door not to move fully
I had a build up of corrosion in one of my water pipes where it connected to the aluminum head. If your heat wasn't used for 6 months during the summer, a blockage could form due to the coolant not circulating through the hoses, pipes, and heater core.
I'm not familiar with the ford escort van. However you might want to check the lines coming out of your heater core in the engine compartment. After having the vehicle get up to operating temp and the heater on you should be able to feel both lines coming out of the heater core. Both of these lines should be hot! If one of the lines are still on the cool side you might have a blockage in your heater core. You can try clearing the blockage or replacing the heater core.
Please someone help before I freeze to death.
Frank Mc
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
Is the linkage to the heater Matrix connected ?
Is the Matrix air locked ? bleed
are the shutters letting air into car open ?
squeezing pipes will not work.
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
I assume the heater hoses are cool rather than hot.
My old Escort van had a little air vent in the heater hose to allow you to get rid of air locks. If yours doesn't have one, disconnect both hoses %26amp; flush through the heater matrix with a hosepipe. Refill the cooling system by parking the van on as steep an uphill slope as you can (or use ramps). This should keep the heater hoses full.
I've done a little research to determine the components used in this particular heater system. Being that I am from America and we don't have Escort Vans, I will have to rely on service maunual to determine how the heater system operates. The previous answers are very good suggestions. In my experience most of the time this condition is caused by lack of coolant flow to the heater core. This can be caused by a couple of different reason. First, an airlock in the system, which can usually easily be corrected by bleeding the coolant system. This bleeder screw will normall be located on top of the engine somewhere around the thermostat housing/upper radiatior hose. In short, ensure that the cooling system is actually full. Start the vehichle, remove the raditor cap, turn on the heater to full speed and temperature, and allow to reach operating temperature, After preparing the system to fill, begin filling at the radiator. Once the engine has reached operating temperature, the thermostat should open and any air pockets should be forced back out of the system. After ensuring the system is full, replace the radiator cap, and check the heater output temperature. If it is still not producing the desired output temperature. Place you hand on the Intake and Output hose of the heater core. If the system is working properly both should be fairly hot. Almost too hot to keep your hand on the hose very long. If both hoses are not hot, you have one of two problems. Either the heater core has an air pocket causing an air lock or from the research I have done, the heater control valve is not allowing the proper flow through the heater core. I believe this is a project that you will need to check these items and get back with me with what you found. I will be more than happy to walk you through the repair process to get your heater working. I don't think this is a serious or expensive repair, but you do need the knowledge to know what to check and how to correct the problem when we find it.
Good luck and Hope to hear from you soon,
it's the the valve that switches between cold and hot air as you turn the temp dial, i can't remember what the exact name of it is. The screw that it piviots on will have seized, it's a common fault on lots of Fords.
they call it blend door, yours might be cable operated ,check the cable when you move the temperature knob,feel if there is resistance,,some times the lock that hold the cable just come off making the blend door not to move fully
I had a build up of corrosion in one of my water pipes where it connected to the aluminum head. If your heat wasn't used for 6 months during the summer, a blockage could form due to the coolant not circulating through the hoses, pipes, and heater core.
I'm not familiar with the ford escort van. However you might want to check the lines coming out of your heater core in the engine compartment. After having the vehicle get up to operating temp and the heater on you should be able to feel both lines coming out of the heater core. Both of these lines should be hot! If one of the lines are still on the cool side you might have a blockage in your heater core. You can try clearing the blockage or replacing the heater core.
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
I have a 94 prelude that i had the engine replaced in back in November. Everything was running fine, but the car would go past the middle point for temp when the car would sit for a while, but then it would go back to the middle point on its own.
Well, last saturday i was on a gravel rd and i peeled out and gravel kicked up and about 5-10 minutes later, i notice the temp gauge was all the way hot. I have changed the thermostat, blead the line, and refilled the coolant and the car gets hot is only about 1 minute. It literally goes from off and cool to all the way hot in about 60-90 seconds. Also, although the temp gauge is all the way hot, the radiator cap, plastic resovoir, no hoses, or the engine is hot. I take the radiator cap off and the coolant is not hot at all.
what is my issue. Please help?
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
Replace the temp gauge sensor and see if that's the culprit. Also, for $35 you can get a radiator cap with a build in temp gauge, so you can compare and see if your dash gauge is screwy.
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
the radiator cap %26amp; like the other guy said ur gauge might b messing up
have u changed ur waterpump???
Well, last saturday i was on a gravel rd and i peeled out and gravel kicked up and about 5-10 minutes later, i notice the temp gauge was all the way hot. I have changed the thermostat, blead the line, and refilled the coolant and the car gets hot is only about 1 minute. It literally goes from off and cool to all the way hot in about 60-90 seconds. Also, although the temp gauge is all the way hot, the radiator cap, plastic resovoir, no hoses, or the engine is hot. I take the radiator cap off and the coolant is not hot at all.
what is my issue. Please help?
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
Replace the temp gauge sensor and see if that's the culprit. Also, for $35 you can get a radiator cap with a build in temp gauge, so you can compare and see if your dash gauge is screwy.
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
the radiator cap %26amp; like the other guy said ur gauge might b messing up
have u changed ur waterpump???
Were is the thermostat in a 98 regal?
i have a 98 buick regal gs i want to change the thermostat but i cant find it anywere does any one know were its located ? and how much should it cost to replace it?
Were is the thermostat in a 98 regal?
It is on the engine block beneath the upper radiator hose. Remove the hose and you will see it. It cost $20 to do it yourself
Were is the thermostat in a 98 regal?
It is on the engine block beneath the upper radiator hose. Remove the hose and you will see it. It cost $20 to do it yourself
How do i change a thermostat on a 92' Audi A6 Quartto?
First, a warning, if you aren't familiar with timing belts and how precisely they must be installed, I would not recommend this job for a beginner. If your mileage is close to 60k since the timing belt has been changed, now is the time. The procedure is best read from a Bentley manual (Bentley Publishing), don't count on Haynes or Clymer. But once the timing belt is out of the way, the thermostat is under the long metal housing in the middle of the motor on the passenger side. A large radiator hose is attached to one end, and the other is bolted to the block with 2 bolts. Drain the coolant out of the radiator drain, hidden on the lower left radiator tank, remove the plastic over the accessory belt, take it off too, then the plastic timing covers and belt, also have to take off the harmonic balancer for access. Then pull off the radiator housing and o-ring, put the new t-stat in the same way, with the button on the inside of the motor, then put it all back together. Never never take a timing belt off one sprocket then just toss it together. That motor has 2 cams and they must both be verified in the correct position in relation to each other and to the crank before that engine is started. Again, not a job for a beginner.
How do i change a thermostat on a 92' Audi A6 Quartto?
the thermostat on most cars is behind the radiator hose thats on top of the engine the end that goes into the block
How do i change a thermostat on a 92' Audi A6 Quartto?
unless you;re very mechanically inclined and have factory bar to hold cam sprockets in time, and plug to hold crank, don't even try. the housing is behind the timing belt on front of the motor pass side. Best to take it to a shop, and since they have to have the belt off anyways, I'd replace timing and serp belt along with tensioners and water pump.vc computer eye strain
How do i change a thermostat on a 92' Audi A6 Quartto?
the thermostat on most cars is behind the radiator hose thats on top of the engine the end that goes into the block
How do i change a thermostat on a 92' Audi A6 Quartto?
unless you;re very mechanically inclined and have factory bar to hold cam sprockets in time, and plug to hold crank, don't even try. the housing is behind the timing belt on front of the motor pass side. Best to take it to a shop, and since they have to have the belt off anyways, I'd replace timing and serp belt along with tensioners and water pump.
How do you change the Thermostat on a 1998 Ford Windstar?
First answer correct. You may want yo drain the Radiator into a pan. At least enough so when you remove the Hose at the engine Antifreeze not go everywhere. I not sure how hard the Drain is to access, it usually on the Driver side bottom of radiator. If, you not find it just be ready for a little Antifreeze coming out and top off when everything replaced.
Also, LOOK at how the Thermostat is placed, not want to put it in backwards.
How do you change the Thermostat on a 1998 Ford Windstar?
First you follow the top radiator hose till it goes to the head. Undo the hose from the haed, take off the goose neck the hose came off. the thermostate is in there. Don't forget to use a new gasket.
Also, LOOK at how the Thermostat is placed, not want to put it in backwards.
How do you change the Thermostat on a 1998 Ford Windstar?
First you follow the top radiator hose till it goes to the head. Undo the hose from the haed, take off the goose neck the hose came off. the thermostate is in there. Don't forget to use a new gasket.
No heat in my 97 ford f150... changed thermostat..?
i have a 97 ford f150 4.6L.. i had the heat stop working.. so i went to auto zone and they suggested that i change the thermostat.. i did soo. drove it around all day doing odds and ends.. the heat got alittle warmer but not like it should be.i was wondering if i was to flush the heater core if that would solve my problem and how well will that work... could there be anthoer problem.. help plz.. its like -12 here i would love to have heat when i have to go back to work on monday...
No heat in my 97 ford f150... changed thermostat..?
No need to spend money on a radiator without first testing some things.
Feel both heater hoses, they should be close to the same temperature. The larger 3/4%26quot; hose is the inlet and should feel slightly warmer than the smaller 5/8' outlet. On most full size pick up trucks, the positioning of the heater core places it higher then the radiator fill and can trap air in the heater core, this will usually give some heat for a moment then go cold. This doesn't sound like what you are explaining.
It sounds like there is some blockage in the heater core. Flushing the heater core actually is a good idea, but make sure to back flush it too.
When purging the coolant system, make sure the heater, not defrost, is on and the fan is on low. this will open the heater control valve and allow air to be forced out of the heater core.
The only other thing I can think of that could be a problem, is a bad or weak radiator cap.
Hope this helps. Christopher
No heat in my 97 ford f150... changed thermostat..?
probably have a blend door broken, or blend door motor frozen, if you're lucky its the heater control switch
Question have you ever flushed out the cooling system and put in anti freeze yet?The problem you might have is that the radiator might be plugged up, you think of changing the radiator for a new one.Because if you haven't flushed it out in awhile like years it might be that the reason for a plugged up radiator is the radiator get stuff built up on the inside of it and can't pass the coolant very well through the inside fins of the radiator and secondly when you refilled the radiator did you leave the engine run while filling it up because you might have air trap inside the cooling system and this can cause it not to heat up either but leave the heater on high while filling it up with anti freeze this will push the coolant through the system and get the air out and hope to get the heat you need.These are good type of engine that don't get the coolant through them very well air get trap somewhere in the system and can't get out while refilling them with anti freeze or coolant.Try these methods and see what happens.Good luck! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
No heat in my 97 ford f150... changed thermostat..?
No need to spend money on a radiator without first testing some things.
Feel both heater hoses, they should be close to the same temperature. The larger 3/4%26quot; hose is the inlet and should feel slightly warmer than the smaller 5/8' outlet. On most full size pick up trucks, the positioning of the heater core places it higher then the radiator fill and can trap air in the heater core, this will usually give some heat for a moment then go cold. This doesn't sound like what you are explaining.
It sounds like there is some blockage in the heater core. Flushing the heater core actually is a good idea, but make sure to back flush it too.
When purging the coolant system, make sure the heater, not defrost, is on and the fan is on low. this will open the heater control valve and allow air to be forced out of the heater core.
The only other thing I can think of that could be a problem, is a bad or weak radiator cap.
Hope this helps. Christopher
No heat in my 97 ford f150... changed thermostat..?
probably have a blend door broken, or blend door motor frozen, if you're lucky its the heater control switch
Question have you ever flushed out the cooling system and put in anti freeze yet?The problem you might have is that the radiator might be plugged up, you think of changing the radiator for a new one.Because if you haven't flushed it out in awhile like years it might be that the reason for a plugged up radiator is the radiator get stuff built up on the inside of it and can't pass the coolant very well through the inside fins of the radiator and secondly when you refilled the radiator did you leave the engine run while filling it up because you might have air trap inside the cooling system and this can cause it not to heat up either but leave the heater on high while filling it up with anti freeze this will push the coolant through the system and get the air out and hope to get the heat you need.These are good type of engine that don't get the coolant through them very well air get trap somewhere in the system and can't get out while refilling them with anti freeze or coolant.Try these methods and see what happens.Good luck! hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Heat doesn't work after a thermostat change, '98 Dodge Stratus 2.4 DOHC.?
Quick details- Girlfriend ran car alone on the expressway, lost heat. Called me, I told her to check temp gauge, it was topped out. Drove down to check car, no busted belts/hoses, coolant at a normal level. Changed thermostat, got heat for about 5 minutes, then got cold (though not as cold as the outside temp.). Temp gauge is reading perfectly fine but no heat at all. It is cold in Michigan. Thanks
Heat doesn't work after a thermostat change, '98 Dodge Stratus 2.4 DOHC.?
probably air locked....should have a little bleeder type valve near the top of the engine, probably on one of the heater lines.....why did it overheat to begin with?
Heat doesn't work after a thermostat change, '98 Dodge Stratus 2.4 DOHC.?
If the problem started after changing the thermostat, you probably have an air pocket in the line. This is keeping the hot radiator water from reaching the heater core and warming up your inside air.
Take it to a mechanic and have them get the air out.
There is probably air in your heater core. Consult a repair manual on burping the cooling system. When burping run the car with the heater on. that will let the coolant flow through the heater core and pull the air out.
You got an air bubble. Fill the radiator with the heat settings wide open for max heat coming out of the daskboard. run the engine til it is full hot -- 10 minutes at least. DON't gun it -- you'll break up large bubbles into small ones - harder to get it all out.
I f that doesn't work, run the engine til it's full hot, turn it off and pull the heater hose where it is at its highest point in the engine bay.... be ready to put it right back on.... You'll know if you got a bubble or solid water....
GM 2.8 Liter and 3.1 Liter motors from ~ 1986 to 1998 have a real pain in the *** bubble spot just behind the thermostat...... So trace your hoses if you're still stuck.
I have a 2000 stratus with the same problem and now my blower motor resistor is going out have u gotten any good replys on this yet??
Heat doesn't work after a thermostat change, '98 Dodge Stratus 2.4 DOHC.?
probably air locked....should have a little bleeder type valve near the top of the engine, probably on one of the heater lines.....why did it overheat to begin with?
Heat doesn't work after a thermostat change, '98 Dodge Stratus 2.4 DOHC.?
If the problem started after changing the thermostat, you probably have an air pocket in the line. This is keeping the hot radiator water from reaching the heater core and warming up your inside air.
Take it to a mechanic and have them get the air out.
There is probably air in your heater core. Consult a repair manual on burping the cooling system. When burping run the car with the heater on. that will let the coolant flow through the heater core and pull the air out.
You got an air bubble. Fill the radiator with the heat settings wide open for max heat coming out of the daskboard. run the engine til it is full hot -- 10 minutes at least. DON't gun it -- you'll break up large bubbles into small ones - harder to get it all out.
I f that doesn't work, run the engine til it's full hot, turn it off and pull the heater hose where it is at its highest point in the engine bay.... be ready to put it right back on.... You'll know if you got a bubble or solid water....
GM 2.8 Liter and 3.1 Liter motors from ~ 1986 to 1998 have a real pain in the *** bubble spot just behind the thermostat...... So trace your hoses if you're still stuck.
I have a 2000 stratus with the same problem and now my blower motor resistor is going out have u gotten any good replys on this yet??
My car heats up fast even though I changed thermostat,water pump and also radiator.Its Mazda 1999?
I have Mazda 626 1999.After driving 5-15 minutes my car temp point is full red zone(H).I have also changed thermostat,water pump,radiator cap and at last a used radiator.I have also checked there is no leak of coolant anywhere.Please also let me know if it is a major problem.I have also changed head gasket.I dont smell antifreez.The oil looks good there is no water.I dont know wht to do now.Just to let you know i have changed used radiator and also when i drive for 15min it gets heats up and the coolant comes back to coolant reservoir.
My car heats up fast even though I changed thermostat,water pump and also radiator.Its Mazda 1999?
sounds like ur coolant is not circulating. I suggest turn the car on and check your radiator hoses. Try to feel if coolant is passing by, or one hose gets hotter than the other. if both hoses have same temp. then i would say, did you make sure ur thermostate is open. Everytime you do anything with cooling system it is always recommended to run the vehicle at stand until thermostate kicks in. Also do the pressure test on the radiator which should indicate if u r loosing any pressure if yes then u have a leak somewhere if not, then radiator should hold the pressure.
good luck
My car heats up fast even though I changed thermostat,water pump and also radiator.Its Mazda 1999?
fan ok belt tight recheck thermostat sure its not upside down
check compression for leak
might be head gasket bad and heating up coolant
I hate to say this but you have probably blown a head or cracked a block. Check the acid level of your coolant. (Exhaust entering your cooling system will raise the acid level.) A mechanic should have the test kit or maybe they sell something like a litmus paper at an auto supply now.
Either way, It doesn't look good.
Sorry.
My car heats up fast even though I changed thermostat,water pump and also radiator.Its Mazda 1999?
sounds like ur coolant is not circulating. I suggest turn the car on and check your radiator hoses. Try to feel if coolant is passing by, or one hose gets hotter than the other. if both hoses have same temp. then i would say, did you make sure ur thermostate is open. Everytime you do anything with cooling system it is always recommended to run the vehicle at stand until thermostate kicks in. Also do the pressure test on the radiator which should indicate if u r loosing any pressure if yes then u have a leak somewhere if not, then radiator should hold the pressure.
good luck
My car heats up fast even though I changed thermostat,water pump and also radiator.Its Mazda 1999?
fan ok belt tight recheck thermostat sure its not upside down
check compression for leak
might be head gasket bad and heating up coolant
I hate to say this but you have probably blown a head or cracked a block. Check the acid level of your coolant. (Exhaust entering your cooling system will raise the acid level.) A mechanic should have the test kit or maybe they sell something like a litmus paper at an auto supply now.
Either way, It doesn't look good.
Sorry.
Over heating car changed thermostat,acting really weird?
one day my heat quit working in my (95 taurus 3.8)so i got on the free way and it started blowing luke warm then 10 min later it was blowing hot as soon as i got off the freeway it started blowing cold instantly,i took it to a shop and had the thermostat replaced,he even took the hoses off the heater core and blow it out,and still the same ,after leaving the shop it was getting really close to over heating so i made it home waited 2 hours and left my house againgot on the freeway(yes dumb)and it started over heating this time the gauge was reading that it was over heating but the car sounded normal and ran normel,but i pulled over anyway and turned the car off and i could hear bubbleing coming from the resivor,got back home safe the next day got in my car and drove it around all day and it was fine,but iam afraid that it will overheat again,what could be causeing it to act like this?
Over heating car changed thermostat,acting really weird?
there my be air still in the system
Over heating car changed thermostat,acting really weird?
Most of these cars have an electric fan that helps keep the engine cool, check to see if its functioning properly.
It could be a bad thermostat, or one rated higher than what your car is made for. Usually 180 deg is safe. You could have air in the system, check this by starting the car cold and taking the radiator cap off and let it run for a few minutes. Keep an eye on your coolant level, if it goes down, add anti-freeze. After about 5-7 minutes and your coolant level looks good, replace the cap %26amp; check your resevoir %26amp; make sure it is up to the warm/hot line. After it is %26amp; the system is closed back up, shut the car off for 5 minutes. Then start the car %26amp; take it for a drive, this should've taken care of the problem. If it doesn't, you might want to have you water pump checked out. Good luck.
I had a similar issue in my F150 p/u. Turned out to be two things...a vacuum check valve and a %26quot;tired%26quot; diaphram on an airflow gate (door) under the dash. replaced them and now they work like new!
If you want to be on the safe side, take it to a different mechanic (a competent, conscientious one) and have him replace the Thermostat again, with a high quality brand, and have him check the fan too. Make sure there is heat coming out of the heater, and the temperature is stable before you leave the parking lot.what is the difference between nail polish swimwea
Over heating car changed thermostat,acting really weird?
there my be air still in the system
Over heating car changed thermostat,acting really weird?
Most of these cars have an electric fan that helps keep the engine cool, check to see if its functioning properly.
It could be a bad thermostat, or one rated higher than what your car is made for. Usually 180 deg is safe. You could have air in the system, check this by starting the car cold and taking the radiator cap off and let it run for a few minutes. Keep an eye on your coolant level, if it goes down, add anti-freeze. After about 5-7 minutes and your coolant level looks good, replace the cap %26amp; check your resevoir %26amp; make sure it is up to the warm/hot line. After it is %26amp; the system is closed back up, shut the car off for 5 minutes. Then start the car %26amp; take it for a drive, this should've taken care of the problem. If it doesn't, you might want to have you water pump checked out. Good luck.
I had a similar issue in my F150 p/u. Turned out to be two things...a vacuum check valve and a %26quot;tired%26quot; diaphram on an airflow gate (door) under the dash. replaced them and now they work like new!
If you want to be on the safe side, take it to a different mechanic (a competent, conscientious one) and have him replace the Thermostat again, with a high quality brand, and have him check the fan too. Make sure there is heat coming out of the heater, and the temperature is stable before you leave the parking lot.
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
i was driving last week andthe hose that is connected to my radiator from the top snaped off. The part that you connect the hose to the radiator with cracked off. Anti-freeze sprayed ever where and i pulled over. I put a new radiator in and it still would over heat, so i changed the thermostat and it still over heats. The water pump is 7 months old. it wont over heat immediatly it takes driving a few miles. when i idle sitting still it wont over heat. Only when i rev the engine up it starts to over heat. Also my heat comes through the vents cold. I was low on oil ( i added one qt) no white or blue smoke from exhaust, no water in oil, no oil in anti freeze, my fans are running fine. what could cause this?
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
It sounds like you have a blockage or that the heat transfer surfaces within the block are fouled. I don't know if you have the means but it sounds like you may need to pull the engine so you can get a better look at the heat transfer surfaces and to visually inspect the cooling channels both within the engine block and heater core. As a Scoobie lover, I feel your pain and wish you the best.
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
sounds like you have air in your cooling system. is there a way to bleed the system? you may also have a blockage somewhere
This is going to sound odd but I went thru the same thing and it was my radiator cap.I spent alot of money I didnt need to because of a $5 part.
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
It sounds like you have a blockage or that the heat transfer surfaces within the block are fouled. I don't know if you have the means but it sounds like you may need to pull the engine so you can get a better look at the heat transfer surfaces and to visually inspect the cooling channels both within the engine block and heater core. As a Scoobie lover, I feel your pain and wish you the best.
99 Subaru Legacy over heats! changed, thermostat, radiator, waterpump, no head gasket symptoms. what is wrong?
sounds like you have air in your cooling system. is there a way to bleed the system? you may also have a blockage somewhere
This is going to sound odd but I went thru the same thing and it was my radiator cap.I spent alot of money I didnt need to because of a $5 part.
2001 Olds Alero Overheating. already changed thermostat?
I have a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero and it has been overheating on me for a couple weeks. It's getting hot enough the the engine starts to sputter, but it has never actually died on me yet. I changed out the Thermostat yesterday at my Fiancees house, and on the way back to my house (about 7 miles away) it started overheating again. Or I should say it started sputtering and the light came on. When I pulled over, I checked the engine myself, but it did not seem very hot. What could be the problem?
2001 Olds Alero Overheating. already changed thermostat?
It sounds like you have a head gasket leaking. You can buy a tester that can check that at a parts store. Hope this helps.
2001 Olds Alero Overheating. already changed thermostat?
could be a coolant temp sensor...but you could also have a head gasket leak or intake gasket leak...check you coolant levels..and your oil...if it looks like a milkshake your in big trouble. Get the car look at right away. we had a customer with your same problem and they chose to just change the t-stat but they had an internal head gasket leak. it could have cost them an engine
2001 Olds Alero Overheating. already changed thermostat?
It sounds like you have a head gasket leaking. You can buy a tester that can check that at a parts store. Hope this helps.
2001 Olds Alero Overheating. already changed thermostat?
could be a coolant temp sensor...but you could also have a head gasket leak or intake gasket leak...check you coolant levels..and your oil...if it looks like a milkshake your in big trouble. Get the car look at right away. we had a customer with your same problem and they chose to just change the t-stat but they had an internal head gasket leak. it could have cost them an engine
Thermostat temperature never changes?
I have a honeywell setback thermostat, and the temperature on the thermostat never changes below the temp. i have set on it, but it still turns on the furnace. Is it supposed to do this, or is there something wrong?
Thermostat temperature never changes?
Those thermostats maintain the temperature within 1/2 of one degree. Therefore, you may not notice the temperature changing and the unit turns on more often for shorter cycles.
Thermostat temperature never changes?
this is normal during the winter months. the thermostat kicks the heat on when it gets down, and kicks it off when the temp has been reached...it might be in a fraction of a degree and this would be hard to tell.
Could be you are in setup mode. Have you already programmed the stat? If yes, do you have a resume button or one that takes you back out of the set up mode? The others are correct in that your temperature should only fluctuate a degree plus or minus, depending on the temperature differential you programmed. In other words, if you set the temp in heating for 70, when the temp drops to 69, your furnace will come on. When the air temperature reaches 71, your furnace will shut off. If you set the differential to 1, that is 1/2 degree under and 1/2 degree over 70. That is a very tight range, but if you want it to be a constant 70, that is where you need it set. You can change the differential to 2, which would give you a 1 degree +/-.
Thermostat temperature never changes?
Those thermostats maintain the temperature within 1/2 of one degree. Therefore, you may not notice the temperature changing and the unit turns on more often for shorter cycles.
Thermostat temperature never changes?
this is normal during the winter months. the thermostat kicks the heat on when it gets down, and kicks it off when the temp has been reached...it might be in a fraction of a degree and this would be hard to tell.
Could be you are in setup mode. Have you already programmed the stat? If yes, do you have a resume button or one that takes you back out of the set up mode? The others are correct in that your temperature should only fluctuate a degree plus or minus, depending on the temperature differential you programmed. In other words, if you set the temp in heating for 70, when the temp drops to 69, your furnace will come on. When the air temperature reaches 71, your furnace will shut off. If you set the differential to 1, that is 1/2 degree under and 1/2 degree over 70. That is a very tight range, but if you want it to be a constant 70, that is where you need it set. You can change the differential to 2, which would give you a 1 degree +/-.
How do i change a thermostat on a 1994 Honda Accord?
VERY VERY EASY!!!! If you have the thermostat, the housing where it goes is behind the distributor cap. Follow the top radiator hose to the engine block. That clamp you see holding the hose onto the block....THATS WHERE THE THERMOSTAT GOES!!! INSIDE THERE!!. Take the hose off, open up the housing and there is the old thermostat. Just pull it out. Wipe the dirt around the inside. Remeber you want a tight seal when you put the housing back together. Pull out the old thermo and place in the new. The spring faces the driver side of the car when you put it in. (optional-use a small amount of high temp silicone to put between both pieces of the housing.) Next put it all back together. DONT OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREWS when putting it back together. Just make them firm and snug. Next put your NEW clamps over the radiator hose and put the hose back on. DONE!
How do i change a thermostat on a 1994 Honda Accord?
I have a 1991 Accord. Changing the thermostat is usually done with the timing belt job, but don't wait for it to have a problem! If the thermostat gets stuck open, the car will run cooler than normal (not so bad). But if it gets stuck closed, it will run hot, then overheat, eventually catch on fire, and fry the delicate aluminum engine block. Just trace the radiator hose to where it meets with the engine, and voila. There is the thermostat.
How do i change a thermostat on a 1994 Honda Accord?
I have a 1991 Accord. Changing the thermostat is usually done with the timing belt job, but don't wait for it to have a problem! If the thermostat gets stuck open, the car will run cooler than normal (not so bad). But if it gets stuck closed, it will run hot, then overheat, eventually catch on fire, and fry the delicate aluminum engine block. Just trace the radiator hose to where it meets with the engine, and voila. There is the thermostat.
Can anyone help my fan wont work on my Volkswagen polo?
its a 1.4 petrol 8valve. weve changed radiator,changed thermostat,changed fan switch.weve wired fan to battery and it works.checked all fuses. any ideas would be greatfully recieved and a big help thankyou
Can anyone help my fan wont work on my Volkswagen polo?
There's a fan relay that you might want to check.
Can anyone help my fan wont work on my Volkswagen polo?
Your very much welcome
electronic fans dont run all the time... when the engine reaches a certain temperature the fan will kick on to cool it off and once it cools off the fan will turn off...vb hair brush
Can anyone help my fan wont work on my Volkswagen polo?
There's a fan relay that you might want to check.
Can anyone help my fan wont work on my Volkswagen polo?
Your very much welcome
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electronic fans dont run all the time... when the engine reaches a certain temperature the fan will kick on to cool it off and once it cools off the fan will turn off...
How much to fix a heater core?
I have a Ford Tarus 99 how much would it be to fix a heater core??? Plus if we have changed thermostat, flushed ratiator and heater still don't work it the heater core definatly the problem????
How much to fix a heater core?
Ok a few questions for you. Does the blower blow air? And did all the air get out of the system? If it didn't it could be causing a air pocket that won't let the fluid flow. but if all of that is good then it really shouldn't cost that much depending on where you live
How much to fix a heater core?
When you had done all of the items. When you where running the car did you turn on the heater? It will take some time for the new fluids to make its way back into the core. Start car and turn on the heater. Open radiator cap first to get a good flow. Warm up car. Check after about 10 min. to see if you have good flow in radiator. When there is a good flow. Then check to see if you have heat. Replace radiator cap. Then recheck heater. If not working still, Then check for a collapsed heater feed line hose.
The labor time needed to make a heater core repair is 5 hours per ALLDATA. The factory heater core is $74.00, so this is not a really quick or cheap repair. I'm guessing from what you have done so far on the vehicle that you are having overheating problems. The only thing that really happens to heater cores is they begin leaking when they get older. If you are having overheating problems....the first thing to check (since you have replaced the thermostat) would be to make sure the electric fan is kicking on like it is supposed to....these are controlled with by a module and I believe they operate at 2 different speeds. I hope this helps.
How much to fix a heater core?
Ok a few questions for you. Does the blower blow air? And did all the air get out of the system? If it didn't it could be causing a air pocket that won't let the fluid flow. but if all of that is good then it really shouldn't cost that much depending on where you live
How much to fix a heater core?
When you had done all of the items. When you where running the car did you turn on the heater? It will take some time for the new fluids to make its way back into the core. Start car and turn on the heater. Open radiator cap first to get a good flow. Warm up car. Check after about 10 min. to see if you have good flow in radiator. When there is a good flow. Then check to see if you have heat. Replace radiator cap. Then recheck heater. If not working still, Then check for a collapsed heater feed line hose.
The labor time needed to make a heater core repair is 5 hours per ALLDATA. The factory heater core is $74.00, so this is not a really quick or cheap repair. I'm guessing from what you have done so far on the vehicle that you are having overheating problems. The only thing that really happens to heater cores is they begin leaking when they get older. If you are having overheating problems....the first thing to check (since you have replaced the thermostat) would be to make sure the electric fan is kicking on like it is supposed to....these are controlled with by a module and I believe they operate at 2 different speeds. I hope this helps.
I changed my thermostat gasket three times now and its still leaking at the bottom and not on the top I ?
tighten the bolts down real good. I dont know what could be the problem. I have a 1989 ford thunderbird lx 3.8
I changed my thermostat gasket three times now and its still leaking at the bottom and not on the top I ?
maybe a crack inthe housing...or misaligned thermo stat?? is it top mounted or on its side?
try using some sylastic goo
I changed my thermostat gasket three times now and its still leaking at the bottom and not on the top I ?
Are you sure the thermostat is in correctly? Did you clean the old gasket off completely? If you leave some of the old gasket without realizing it, that can cause a leak.
I believe the housing part that comes off has a lip for the thermostat to seat into and if it is not seated, that will cause a leak also. Use some RTV or anything sticky to help hold it in place until you get the housing seated.
If the housing has scratches or pits that are very bad, that will also cause a leak. Again, use some RTV to help seal the gasket. That will fill the voids that the gasket is not sealing. Also check to see that you didn't crack the housing possibly by not getting the thermostat seated the first time.
Sorry to here you are still having problems with that. Go back and see if they offer a thicker gasket.Some places will sell a thick rubber gasket. Try getting a wire brush or something and sanding on the surfaces to be sealed. Are you sure something is not cracked? If all else fails use the rtv gasket maker and put it down real thick on both sides of the metal housings. Let this dry for 15 minutes or so , insert gasket between then put the neck on and tighten down. Have had to do this on many older 350 Chevy's that way. Sometimes after time the surfaces will warp and the thin gasket is just not enough.
Did you clean the old thermostat gasket material off before installing the new one? is the thermostat and gasket the correct way up, you could put a thin bead of silicone on the manifold and thermostat housing as well, and on the threads of the bolts, the thermostat housing could also be warped,
It could be the wrong thermostat or that you've not cleaned the two surfaces good enough what I try to do is use a paint scraper and fine sand paper and make sure the two surfaces are fully dry but I recommend using a high temperature gasket maker that runs about 8 bucks bec it can be used many times and helps stop or prevent any possible leaks.
Hope that helps and best of luck.
Need more information. Is it bottom of thermostat housing or bottom of the engine? If it is leaking from bottom of the housing, the housing is no good.
maybe the thermostat slid under the housing. they will do that sometimes. try putting the thermostat in the block first. or it could be your not tightening the bolts evenly. just tighten each bolt a little at a time until they both are tight.
make sure the thermostat is the right one for your car and it's possible the housing is warped, buy a new thermostat housing.
Make sure you have the right one then put some FORM-A-GASKET on it.
Can be found at any auto parts store.
I changed my thermostat gasket three times now and its still leaking at the bottom and not on the top I ?
maybe a crack inthe housing...or misaligned thermo stat?? is it top mounted or on its side?
try using some sylastic goo
I changed my thermostat gasket three times now and its still leaking at the bottom and not on the top I ?
Are you sure the thermostat is in correctly? Did you clean the old gasket off completely? If you leave some of the old gasket without realizing it, that can cause a leak.
I believe the housing part that comes off has a lip for the thermostat to seat into and if it is not seated, that will cause a leak also. Use some RTV or anything sticky to help hold it in place until you get the housing seated.
If the housing has scratches or pits that are very bad, that will also cause a leak. Again, use some RTV to help seal the gasket. That will fill the voids that the gasket is not sealing. Also check to see that you didn't crack the housing possibly by not getting the thermostat seated the first time.
Sorry to here you are still having problems with that. Go back and see if they offer a thicker gasket.Some places will sell a thick rubber gasket. Try getting a wire brush or something and sanding on the surfaces to be sealed. Are you sure something is not cracked? If all else fails use the rtv gasket maker and put it down real thick on both sides of the metal housings. Let this dry for 15 minutes or so , insert gasket between then put the neck on and tighten down. Have had to do this on many older 350 Chevy's that way. Sometimes after time the surfaces will warp and the thin gasket is just not enough.
Did you clean the old thermostat gasket material off before installing the new one? is the thermostat and gasket the correct way up, you could put a thin bead of silicone on the manifold and thermostat housing as well, and on the threads of the bolts, the thermostat housing could also be warped,
It could be the wrong thermostat or that you've not cleaned the two surfaces good enough what I try to do is use a paint scraper and fine sand paper and make sure the two surfaces are fully dry but I recommend using a high temperature gasket maker that runs about 8 bucks bec it can be used many times and helps stop or prevent any possible leaks.
Hope that helps and best of luck.
Need more information. Is it bottom of thermostat housing or bottom of the engine? If it is leaking from bottom of the housing, the housing is no good.
maybe the thermostat slid under the housing. they will do that sometimes. try putting the thermostat in the block first. or it could be your not tightening the bolts evenly. just tighten each bolt a little at a time until they both are tight.
make sure the thermostat is the right one for your car and it's possible the housing is warped, buy a new thermostat housing.
Make sure you have the right one then put some FORM-A-GASKET on it.
Can be found at any auto parts store.
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