Find a library that carries the ALLDATA data base. They have a very good description of the technique involved. You will have to remove the upper intake manifold. This also requires the separation of fuel injection fuel lines. By the way, this is really an Opel/Saab V6, if you didn't know. Perhaps all you really need is flush and fill of the coolant. DON%26quot;T use the GM dexcool, use the Saab coolant or Ford Yellow coolant. SEE the %26quot;dexcoolsettlement%26quot; web-site and the other %26quot;GM Litigation%26quot; web-sites. Good luck!!
How do i change the thermostat on a 1998 Cadillac Catera?
Look in the book. Do what it says. You can find Chiltons Auto Repair manuals at the public library. It's not enough to say, %26quot;Take out the old thermostat and put a new one in and replace the gasket%26quot;. The pictures in the maual can better show you where the parts are than for you to be told to look here and there.
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
I have an accord 96 that has 100,000kms on it. had an oil change recently.
A few days after this oil change, I had an overheat and after this overheat, the oil pressure warning light started acting eratically.
First, after a cold start, the light does not turn on but after the engine warms up, the light flashes. The problem is, while revving the engine, the light goes off and immediately goes on again when the engine is idle.
To address my original problem, mechanics informed me that they would change the oil sending unit, change thermostat valve and thermostat switch.
After this, the problem was still the same (light goes off with revving). They recommended a general overhaul for the reason that the engine had so much sludge and they blamed the problem on the engine flush that was included during the change oil.
Now, i really dont know what to do next. General overhaul is too expensive for my budget.. Any tips?
Thanks very much!
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
the first and obvious question is--have you checked the oil level recently? I've seen drain bolts leak on Hondas if you don't change the washer for the plug and you could legitimately have a low oil condition. so thats the first thing to do.
then, if the oil is full, have your technician put an oil pressure gauge on the car to run a pressure test. That will tell you if the problem is a mechanical one (oil pump) or an electrical one (sending unit/gauge). Your description sounds like a mechanical problem with the oil pump. If the car does have low oil pressure, then the next thing to do is to have the oil pan removed to check the oil pick up for the oil pump. If it is clogged they can clean it. If not, then you'll have to change the pump.
accords are not known to generate a lot of sludge unless the oil is never changed. the engine flushes rarely provide any value.
hope that helps
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
Your oil pump is going bad. what is happening it is not pumping enough oil at idle and triggering your light. an easy way to check is get an oil pressure gauge, hook it up at make sure, this can have disasterous effects on your engine if not taken care of IMMEDIETLY.
Honda's are not known for sludge unless you don't change the oil at all.
Does the car have oil in it?
Could be the pump going bad...or the sending unit may not be reading correctly...or as simple as it wasn't wired correctly.
We had one that was triggered by the e-brake and just had to rewire it.
Sounds like the oil pump though and if it is and its not fixed its a good way to blow up a motor when it eventually freezes up.
A few days after this oil change, I had an overheat and after this overheat, the oil pressure warning light started acting eratically.
First, after a cold start, the light does not turn on but after the engine warms up, the light flashes. The problem is, while revving the engine, the light goes off and immediately goes on again when the engine is idle.
To address my original problem, mechanics informed me that they would change the oil sending unit, change thermostat valve and thermostat switch.
After this, the problem was still the same (light goes off with revving). They recommended a general overhaul for the reason that the engine had so much sludge and they blamed the problem on the engine flush that was included during the change oil.
Now, i really dont know what to do next. General overhaul is too expensive for my budget.. Any tips?
Thanks very much!
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
the first and obvious question is--have you checked the oil level recently? I've seen drain bolts leak on Hondas if you don't change the washer for the plug and you could legitimately have a low oil condition. so thats the first thing to do.
then, if the oil is full, have your technician put an oil pressure gauge on the car to run a pressure test. That will tell you if the problem is a mechanical one (oil pump) or an electrical one (sending unit/gauge). Your description sounds like a mechanical problem with the oil pump. If the car does have low oil pressure, then the next thing to do is to have the oil pan removed to check the oil pick up for the oil pump. If it is clogged they can clean it. If not, then you'll have to change the pump.
accords are not known to generate a lot of sludge unless the oil is never changed. the engine flushes rarely provide any value.
hope that helps
My oil pressure warning light on my Honda Accord 96 goes on when the engine is idle, what is the problem?
Your oil pump is going bad. what is happening it is not pumping enough oil at idle and triggering your light. an easy way to check is get an oil pressure gauge, hook it up at make sure, this can have disasterous effects on your engine if not taken care of IMMEDIETLY.
Honda's are not known for sludge unless you don't change the oil at all.
Does the car have oil in it?
Could be the pump going bad...or the sending unit may not be reading correctly...or as simple as it wasn't wired correctly.
We had one that was triggered by the e-brake and just had to rewire it.
Sounds like the oil pump though and if it is and its not fixed its a good way to blow up a motor when it eventually freezes up.
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
I have a 1997 Ford F-150 4.6 Liter 84,000 miles. The truck takes forever to heat up, when it does I get hot heat, but then the temp gauge starts to drop and the heat goes cold. Sometimes the gauge doesn't drop and the heat goes cold. The gauge never goes beyond about a quarter of the way up. The blower works. I changed the thermostat, what I thought was the most obvious for what seems to be over cooling, but the problem still exists. I checked all lines and fluid is flowing through the heater core as well. At a complete loss??????
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
Check and fill the Coolant again and into the radiator, because there is a giant air bubble that moves around after you drain and then refill the coolant once. Sometimes on my truck the coolant dows not flow from the plastic overflow reservoir into the radiator, that's why I said to fill the radiator directly again.
I think the factory thermostat rating is about 195 degrees or so, so check the package.
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
Is the heater core plugged? Or the lines to it?cute myspace pc or mac
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
Check and fill the Coolant again and into the radiator, because there is a giant air bubble that moves around after you drain and then refill the coolant once. Sometimes on my truck the coolant dows not flow from the plastic overflow reservoir into the radiator, that's why I said to fill the radiator directly again.
I think the factory thermostat rating is about 195 degrees or so, so check the package.
1997 Ford F150 4.6 liter only getting heat occasionally, changed thermostat already problem still exists?
Is the heater core plugged? Or the lines to it?
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
I have gone off grid and dont have power from utility company anymore but cant supply enough power yet for 220 volt. I want to convert my water heater to 110 volt. Can I put a 110 volt screw in type element in place of a 220 volt element? Do I also need to change thermostat too?
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
Do not listen to any one of these people who say that you can't do this.They do not know about electricity or water heaters.You will NOT have to change thermostats.The only change that will have to be made after the element is changed is the breaker in the panel.You will have to change it to a single pole breaker[single pole 30 amp] and one of the wires will have to be connected to the neutral bar.Also make sure that the element that you get is not larger than 2500 watts.It will take longer to heat the water but it will work.A 2500 watt element at 120 volts will draw 20.4 amps.Is your generator large enough for this?
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
No, you cant do that without switching all kinds of stuff.... cheaper to buy a 110v water heater.
If you're off-grid, the voltage may not be your only issue. Do you have enough power (watts) available to heat the water? Remember that to heat the water energy is added; the energy is provided from electricity. Even a small 6 gallon 120V water heater uses about 1400W of power. Most 40 gallon, 240V units use about 6000W. Switching from a 240V coil to a 120V coil won't change the power needed to heat the water - but will require twice the current (Power = Voltage X Current). A solar water heater with powered temperature maintenance may be a better choice for you.
no
No, but you can use a 220V element in either one. The same thermostat can be used for either.
I have seen a lot of jury-rigged things in my day. Remeber though, that you're dealing with electricity and water. Play it safe and get a 110 volt water heater.
If the water heater has a 220v power supply, your element will burn out.
After conversion to 110v power supply, your element will work but the thermostat also has to be changed.
It will take a longer time to heat the water say 40-gallon type especially when the demand is highest in the mornings. It all depends on how many people live in your house (including very small children), whether you take bath or shower, whether the dishwasher runs in the mornings and if the clothes washer also will run say, in the weekends. If you have small babies, the demand is ever more because of beddings, clothes and other things that comes with the bringing up a small child.
All this put a heavy demand and the water heater will find it difficult to keep up.
If it fits, Probably OK but you must also change the power source to 110V.
In most cases the thermostat is only a switch and should be OK.
Note also that the power consumption in watts would be the same for the same BTU.
-
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
Do not listen to any one of these people who say that you can't do this.They do not know about electricity or water heaters.You will NOT have to change thermostats.The only change that will have to be made after the element is changed is the breaker in the panel.You will have to change it to a single pole breaker[single pole 30 amp] and one of the wires will have to be connected to the neutral bar.Also make sure that the element that you get is not larger than 2500 watts.It will take longer to heat the water but it will work.A 2500 watt element at 120 volts will draw 20.4 amps.Is your generator large enough for this?
Can I put a 110 volt element in a 220 volt water heater?
No, you cant do that without switching all kinds of stuff.... cheaper to buy a 110v water heater.
If you're off-grid, the voltage may not be your only issue. Do you have enough power (watts) available to heat the water? Remember that to heat the water energy is added; the energy is provided from electricity. Even a small 6 gallon 120V water heater uses about 1400W of power. Most 40 gallon, 240V units use about 6000W. Switching from a 240V coil to a 120V coil won't change the power needed to heat the water - but will require twice the current (Power = Voltage X Current). A solar water heater with powered temperature maintenance may be a better choice for you.
no
No, but you can use a 220V element in either one. The same thermostat can be used for either.
I have seen a lot of jury-rigged things in my day. Remeber though, that you're dealing with electricity and water. Play it safe and get a 110 volt water heater.
If the water heater has a 220v power supply, your element will burn out.
After conversion to 110v power supply, your element will work but the thermostat also has to be changed.
It will take a longer time to heat the water say 40-gallon type especially when the demand is highest in the mornings. It all depends on how many people live in your house (including very small children), whether you take bath or shower, whether the dishwasher runs in the mornings and if the clothes washer also will run say, in the weekends. If you have small babies, the demand is ever more because of beddings, clothes and other things that comes with the bringing up a small child.
All this put a heavy demand and the water heater will find it difficult to keep up.
If it fits, Probably OK but you must also change the power source to 110V.
In most cases the thermostat is only a switch and should be OK.
Note also that the power consumption in watts would be the same for the same BTU.
-
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
Hi can anyone help? I've noticed as the weather is getting colder the heater in my wee van is blowing cold air. I've checked the water level, fitted a new thermostat, with no effect. I can get a slight heat if I set the temp at max and the blower at min, but nothing to speak of. The van temperature gauge does not overheat. no sign of any emulsification in the radiator water. I've tried squeezing the heater hose in case there is an air lock. Still wont work.
Please someone help before I freeze to death.
Frank Mc
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
Is the linkage to the heater Matrix connected ?
Is the Matrix air locked ? bleed
are the shutters letting air into car open ?
squeezing pipes will not work.
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
I assume the heater hoses are cool rather than hot.
My old Escort van had a little air vent in the heater hose to allow you to get rid of air locks. If yours doesn't have one, disconnect both hoses %26amp; flush through the heater matrix with a hosepipe. Refill the cooling system by parking the van on as steep an uphill slope as you can (or use ramps). This should keep the heater hoses full.
I've done a little research to determine the components used in this particular heater system. Being that I am from America and we don't have Escort Vans, I will have to rely on service maunual to determine how the heater system operates. The previous answers are very good suggestions. In my experience most of the time this condition is caused by lack of coolant flow to the heater core. This can be caused by a couple of different reason. First, an airlock in the system, which can usually easily be corrected by bleeding the coolant system. This bleeder screw will normall be located on top of the engine somewhere around the thermostat housing/upper radiatior hose. In short, ensure that the cooling system is actually full. Start the vehichle, remove the raditor cap, turn on the heater to full speed and temperature, and allow to reach operating temperature, After preparing the system to fill, begin filling at the radiator. Once the engine has reached operating temperature, the thermostat should open and any air pockets should be forced back out of the system. After ensuring the system is full, replace the radiator cap, and check the heater output temperature. If it is still not producing the desired output temperature. Place you hand on the Intake and Output hose of the heater core. If the system is working properly both should be fairly hot. Almost too hot to keep your hand on the hose very long. If both hoses are not hot, you have one of two problems. Either the heater core has an air pocket causing an air lock or from the research I have done, the heater control valve is not allowing the proper flow through the heater core. I believe this is a project that you will need to check these items and get back with me with what you found. I will be more than happy to walk you through the repair process to get your heater working. I don't think this is a serious or expensive repair, but you do need the knowledge to know what to check and how to correct the problem when we find it.
Good luck and Hope to hear from you soon,
it's the the valve that switches between cold and hot air as you turn the temp dial, i can't remember what the exact name of it is. The screw that it piviots on will have seized, it's a common fault on lots of Fords.
they call it blend door, yours might be cable operated ,check the cable when you move the temperature knob,feel if there is resistance,,some times the lock that hold the cable just come off making the blend door not to move fully
I had a build up of corrosion in one of my water pipes where it connected to the aluminum head. If your heat wasn't used for 6 months during the summer, a blockage could form due to the coolant not circulating through the hoses, pipes, and heater core.
I'm not familiar with the ford escort van. However you might want to check the lines coming out of your heater core in the engine compartment. After having the vehicle get up to operating temp and the heater on you should be able to feel both lines coming out of the heater core. Both of these lines should be hot! If one of the lines are still on the cool side you might have a blockage in your heater core. You can try clearing the blockage or replacing the heater core.
Please someone help before I freeze to death.
Frank Mc
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
Is the linkage to the heater Matrix connected ?
Is the Matrix air locked ? bleed
are the shutters letting air into car open ?
squeezing pipes will not work.
Ford escort van heater wont work. Have changed thermostat. Blower etc ok?
I assume the heater hoses are cool rather than hot.
My old Escort van had a little air vent in the heater hose to allow you to get rid of air locks. If yours doesn't have one, disconnect both hoses %26amp; flush through the heater matrix with a hosepipe. Refill the cooling system by parking the van on as steep an uphill slope as you can (or use ramps). This should keep the heater hoses full.
I've done a little research to determine the components used in this particular heater system. Being that I am from America and we don't have Escort Vans, I will have to rely on service maunual to determine how the heater system operates. The previous answers are very good suggestions. In my experience most of the time this condition is caused by lack of coolant flow to the heater core. This can be caused by a couple of different reason. First, an airlock in the system, which can usually easily be corrected by bleeding the coolant system. This bleeder screw will normall be located on top of the engine somewhere around the thermostat housing/upper radiatior hose. In short, ensure that the cooling system is actually full. Start the vehichle, remove the raditor cap, turn on the heater to full speed and temperature, and allow to reach operating temperature, After preparing the system to fill, begin filling at the radiator. Once the engine has reached operating temperature, the thermostat should open and any air pockets should be forced back out of the system. After ensuring the system is full, replace the radiator cap, and check the heater output temperature. If it is still not producing the desired output temperature. Place you hand on the Intake and Output hose of the heater core. If the system is working properly both should be fairly hot. Almost too hot to keep your hand on the hose very long. If both hoses are not hot, you have one of two problems. Either the heater core has an air pocket causing an air lock or from the research I have done, the heater control valve is not allowing the proper flow through the heater core. I believe this is a project that you will need to check these items and get back with me with what you found. I will be more than happy to walk you through the repair process to get your heater working. I don't think this is a serious or expensive repair, but you do need the knowledge to know what to check and how to correct the problem when we find it.
Good luck and Hope to hear from you soon,
it's the the valve that switches between cold and hot air as you turn the temp dial, i can't remember what the exact name of it is. The screw that it piviots on will have seized, it's a common fault on lots of Fords.
they call it blend door, yours might be cable operated ,check the cable when you move the temperature knob,feel if there is resistance,,some times the lock that hold the cable just come off making the blend door not to move fully
I had a build up of corrosion in one of my water pipes where it connected to the aluminum head. If your heat wasn't used for 6 months during the summer, a blockage could form due to the coolant not circulating through the hoses, pipes, and heater core.
I'm not familiar with the ford escort van. However you might want to check the lines coming out of your heater core in the engine compartment. After having the vehicle get up to operating temp and the heater on you should be able to feel both lines coming out of the heater core. Both of these lines should be hot! If one of the lines are still on the cool side you might have a blockage in your heater core. You can try clearing the blockage or replacing the heater core.
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
I have a 94 prelude that i had the engine replaced in back in November. Everything was running fine, but the car would go past the middle point for temp when the car would sit for a while, but then it would go back to the middle point on its own.
Well, last saturday i was on a gravel rd and i peeled out and gravel kicked up and about 5-10 minutes later, i notice the temp gauge was all the way hot. I have changed the thermostat, blead the line, and refilled the coolant and the car gets hot is only about 1 minute. It literally goes from off and cool to all the way hot in about 60-90 seconds. Also, although the temp gauge is all the way hot, the radiator cap, plastic resovoir, no hoses, or the engine is hot. I take the radiator cap off and the coolant is not hot at all.
what is my issue. Please help?
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
Replace the temp gauge sensor and see if that's the culprit. Also, for $35 you can get a radiator cap with a build in temp gauge, so you can compare and see if your dash gauge is screwy.
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
the radiator cap %26amp; like the other guy said ur gauge might b messing up
have u changed ur waterpump???
Well, last saturday i was on a gravel rd and i peeled out and gravel kicked up and about 5-10 minutes later, i notice the temp gauge was all the way hot. I have changed the thermostat, blead the line, and refilled the coolant and the car gets hot is only about 1 minute. It literally goes from off and cool to all the way hot in about 60-90 seconds. Also, although the temp gauge is all the way hot, the radiator cap, plastic resovoir, no hoses, or the engine is hot. I take the radiator cap off and the coolant is not hot at all.
what is my issue. Please help?
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
Replace the temp gauge sensor and see if that's the culprit. Also, for $35 you can get a radiator cap with a build in temp gauge, so you can compare and see if your dash gauge is screwy.
94 Prelude overheating, but nothing hot under the hood. Change Thermostat already, what next?
the radiator cap %26amp; like the other guy said ur gauge might b messing up
have u changed ur waterpump???
Were is the thermostat in a 98 regal?
i have a 98 buick regal gs i want to change the thermostat but i cant find it anywere does any one know were its located ? and how much should it cost to replace it?
Were is the thermostat in a 98 regal?
It is on the engine block beneath the upper radiator hose. Remove the hose and you will see it. It cost $20 to do it yourself
Were is the thermostat in a 98 regal?
It is on the engine block beneath the upper radiator hose. Remove the hose and you will see it. It cost $20 to do it yourself
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