Friday, June 3, 2011
I have a 2000 vw bug and i need help in changing the thermostat or the water pump?
i need the location of the water pump or for the thermostat thank you|||The water pump is timing belt driven and is under the plastic timing cover on passenger side. These water pumps have a history of breaking, due to the fact they have a plastic impeller and it shears off the shaft, which causes the engine to overheat. First you want to remove the thermostat and then check the water pump. Follow the lower radiator hose to where it connects to the engine. That flange is where the thermostat is at. After you remove the thermostat you can shine a light in the hole and put your finger in there, if the impellar of the water pump moves, it needs to be replaced. If it does, then you might as well replace the timing belt and tensioner, seeing how you have to remove it to get the water pump off.
Changing the thermostat on a 1999 Volkswagen new beetle?
bs i have a new volkswagen you can work on them fine and if you dont have the tool go to the store and buy it.
basicly follow the top tube on the radiator to the engine or sometimes plastic tube on the engine.
the piece that bolts to the engine is where the thermostat is all you will need to do is un bolt it and change the thermostat but make sure you put it in in the right direction. rebolt the tube assembly back on. and put some more coolant in if you lost some.
i own a 2001 glx passat 5 speed|||Unless u r a mechanic you wont be able to work on a VW, the newer ones require special tools, take it to a dealership|||ziggy is right, you follow the hose that comes off the very top of the rad (usually top left corner) all the way to the engine and it%26#039;d most likely be 2 bolts into the engine block. You loosen it and there should be your thermostat(it%26#039;s not bolted to anything you can just take it out), slip the new one in and voala. All you%26#039;ll need is probably like 1/2%26quot; drive or something.
basicly follow the top tube on the radiator to the engine or sometimes plastic tube on the engine.
the piece that bolts to the engine is where the thermostat is all you will need to do is un bolt it and change the thermostat but make sure you put it in in the right direction. rebolt the tube assembly back on. and put some more coolant in if you lost some.
i own a 2001 glx passat 5 speed|||Unless u r a mechanic you wont be able to work on a VW, the newer ones require special tools, take it to a dealership|||ziggy is right, you follow the hose that comes off the very top of the rad (usually top left corner) all the way to the engine and it%26#039;d most likely be 2 bolts into the engine block. You loosen it and there should be your thermostat(it%26#039;s not bolted to anything you can just take it out), slip the new one in and voala. All you%26#039;ll need is probably like 1/2%26quot; drive or something.
Where is the thermostat in a 1992 Buick Riviera?
my mother%26#039;s car keeps overheating and she bought a new thermostat. she has changed thermostats in other cars, but cannot find it in our 1992 Buick Riviera. PLEASE HELP!!!!!|||Are you sure that it is the thermostat that is causing the overheating.|||it is usually on the engine right where the coolant hose enters the engine. its inside a bubble looking metal pipe the rubber hose attaches to|||i think, but im not positive, its on the intake manifold by the throttle body...im not sure though...good luck!|||follow the top rad. hose
I have a 2003 nissan xterra which is overheating. I've tried changing the thermostat but thats not the problem
what could be the problem?|||Several thing can cause overheating.
The Fan belt may be loose
The water pump may be leaking
The radiator may be clogged (unlikely but possible)
The timeing may be off
Blown head gaskets
Clogged exhaust|||NEVER replace any part till you know the problem. Open the hood and with the engine at operating temp. see if the fan or fans are running. If not check the coolant temp. sensor located where the top radiator hose connects to the engine, where you put the thermostat. Turn on the a/c and the fan should start. If so you will know the fan and relay are ok. If fan is ok you probably have a radiator partly plugged. Go to a RAdIATOR shop, not an auto repair, and have them check it out. Stay away from dealers.|||how do you know it%26#039;s overheating?
does the temp gauge rise into the red or does the coolant boil?
is that the 3.3L? or the 4cyl both have fan clutches on them.
does the engine take a few minutes to overheat? or does it take a hot day and 2 hours of driving to overheat? when you changed the thermostat, did you bleed the cooling system correctly?
there is a bleed/fill screw towards the left(drivers) rear of the intake manifold that should be removed when filling the c-system (on the 6cyl.)
oh yeah, and the area between the condenser and the radiator has a good chance to accumulate dirt and debris and should be checked.
need more info from the customer.|||this can alsoo be the water pump going bad on it,the fins on it that circulate the water will wear out,and the pump wont leak any ,it just wont pump water good,it can also be a radiator getting stopped up on it,the get clogged up in the bottom,and wont let the coolant go through it real good,this causes the vehicle to run hot,id check those things out,,it will probably turn out to be one of them,als check the cooling fan on it,good luck with it.
The Fan belt may be loose
The water pump may be leaking
The radiator may be clogged (unlikely but possible)
The timeing may be off
Blown head gaskets
Clogged exhaust|||NEVER replace any part till you know the problem. Open the hood and with the engine at operating temp. see if the fan or fans are running. If not check the coolant temp. sensor located where the top radiator hose connects to the engine, where you put the thermostat. Turn on the a/c and the fan should start. If so you will know the fan and relay are ok. If fan is ok you probably have a radiator partly plugged. Go to a RAdIATOR shop, not an auto repair, and have them check it out. Stay away from dealers.|||how do you know it%26#039;s overheating?
does the temp gauge rise into the red or does the coolant boil?
is that the 3.3L? or the 4cyl both have fan clutches on them.
does the engine take a few minutes to overheat? or does it take a hot day and 2 hours of driving to overheat? when you changed the thermostat, did you bleed the cooling system correctly?
there is a bleed/fill screw towards the left(drivers) rear of the intake manifold that should be removed when filling the c-system (on the 6cyl.)
oh yeah, and the area between the condenser and the radiator has a good chance to accumulate dirt and debris and should be checked.
need more info from the customer.|||this can alsoo be the water pump going bad on it,the fins on it that circulate the water will wear out,and the pump wont leak any ,it just wont pump water good,it can also be a radiator getting stopped up on it,the get clogged up in the bottom,and wont let the coolant go through it real good,this causes the vehicle to run hot,id check those things out,,it will probably turn out to be one of them,als check the cooling fan on it,good luck with it.
Changing a thermostat on a '95 Ford Ranger...read details please?
I took my truck to a shop to have the thermostat changed. 2.3L 4 cylinder, A/C, 5 speed 2 wheel drive. At first he told me it would take an hour and cost 55 bucks but when he tore into it, he said it was more involved. He showed me the book which said it should take 2.5 hours if there was a certain obstruction which there was. Well it took him 5 hours. At first he put the thermostat on wrong then had to tear it up and start over. He did get a new gasket for it though. My question is, does this guy know what he%26#039;s doing? This place is an actual shop that sells tires and does mechanical work. I%26#039;m driving this truck 1000 miles one way next week for vacation and just wanna know if I need to worry. What signs do I need to look for if he didn%26#039;t put it in right? And....5 hours for real? Oh yeah, he only charged me 80 bucks so he didn%26#039;t rip me off labor wise. Thanks.|||i agree with the above answer|||He cannot charge over 2.5 hours--his screw up is his problem--should have gone to a FORD dealer. if it isn%26#039;t overheating by now--it is fine. Go for a half hour ride and see the gauge--make yourself happy before your trip.
Is there an easy way to check/change thermostat on Astra?
Astra 1.4 %26quot;N%26quot; reg. Heater works fine at low speeds (30-40mph)
after that it goes cold. I think I may need to change the
thermostat and wonder if there is an easy way to do this or
could there be another reason for this problem.
Help appreciated. Bill|||It does indeed sound like your stat is jammed open. So long as you%26#039;re not losing water, that is.
If you can%26#039;t get around to changing it (what with it being f-f-f-freezing at the moment, try blanking off the bottom half of the rad with tinfoil (just like everyone did in winter in the 60%26#039;s and 70%26#039;s) to raise the temperature a bit.
A good double check, is to see if your oil filler cap is covered in %26quot;mayonnaise%26quot; on the inside. If it is, the engine%26#039;s being overcooled and not getting hot enough to drive off any condensation.|||its not your stat, sounds more like a vent prob, make shore controls on recirculate, the curled arrow,|||mmm, they work, or dont work, speed doesnt matter...
sounds like its jammed open, so its not heating up properly, or the header bottle is empty...
thermostat housing is at teh end of the top rad hose... and do it cold, or youll scald yourself... and doht forget to change the gasket.|||No easy way to change the stat. Being an %26#039;N%26#039; reg could be the water pump on its way out. As the belt turns the pump quicker it is not coping.
after that it goes cold. I think I may need to change the
thermostat and wonder if there is an easy way to do this or
could there be another reason for this problem.
Help appreciated. Bill|||It does indeed sound like your stat is jammed open. So long as you%26#039;re not losing water, that is.
If you can%26#039;t get around to changing it (what with it being f-f-f-freezing at the moment, try blanking off the bottom half of the rad with tinfoil (just like everyone did in winter in the 60%26#039;s and 70%26#039;s) to raise the temperature a bit.
A good double check, is to see if your oil filler cap is covered in %26quot;mayonnaise%26quot; on the inside. If it is, the engine%26#039;s being overcooled and not getting hot enough to drive off any condensation.|||its not your stat, sounds more like a vent prob, make shore controls on recirculate, the curled arrow,|||mmm, they work, or dont work, speed doesnt matter...
sounds like its jammed open, so its not heating up properly, or the header bottle is empty...
thermostat housing is at teh end of the top rad hose... and do it cold, or youll scald yourself... and doht forget to change the gasket.|||No easy way to change the stat. Being an %26#039;N%26#039; reg could be the water pump on its way out. As the belt turns the pump quicker it is not coping.
Thermostat?
when changing a thermostat do you have to drain the coolant? And if so do you just unclamp the bottom horse of the radiator? thanks|||You can either unclamp a hose that is lower then where the thermostat is or let the fluid drain from the little spout in the bottom of the radiator. Make sure you dispose of the fluid properly (NOT ON YOUR LAWN OR IN THE SEWER DRAIN) cause it kills dogs.|||idk|||If your car is completely cooled down and not under pressure, you can just switch it out like that. There is no need to have remove any radiator fluid to change your thermostat since your thermostat is at the highest point in the system. Just don%26#039;t change the thermostat while your cooling system is under pressure. Its a good idea to change your rad fluid as a preventative maintenance thing though.|||Depending on the year and make of your car, You might not have to. A lot of the newer models do not require a gasket sealant and some don%26#039;t even reqiure a seprate gasket.
As long as you can achieve a clean dry sealing surface, you should be golden.|||yes you do have to drain the coolant.
instead of unclamping the hose, on the bottom inside portion of the radiator there is a small petcock that you turn to drain the radiator.
drain it into a pan so you can put it back in. if you pull the hose you%26#039;ll probably lose a lot.
car overheating? i assume so, or else why would you want to replace the thermostat.|||You don%26#039;t have to drain it. You%26#039;ll get some fluid when you loosen the top radiator hose, but you%26#039;ll only lose a portion of it. Make sure the car is cooled off proprerly before you touch anyhting. If you do need to remove coolant there shoud be a petcock on the raiator you can open, but it may be plugged. If so you may have to remove the bottom hose.|||I wouldn%26#039;t recommend doing that. Take your radiator cap off first then locate your radiator `pet-cock%26#039; near the bottom of the radiator and turn it counterclockwise[with a pan under it]
Drain a couple of qts out of it then tighten it back up.
replace your thermostat [read directions] and refilll the radiator.|||Some cars have a petcock on the bottom of the radiator that will allow you to drain some fluid out. On others, you have to loosen the bottom hose and drain some out.
It is not necessary to drain it all out, normally, just a gallon or two will lower the level enough to replace the thermostat. Put a bucket underneath and then you can reuse the fluid. If the fluid is over 2 years old, then it would be a good time to replace it with fresh coolant.
good luck.|||assuming its on the top and not the bottom of the motor ,
drain just enough to lower the level under
where the thermstat is.
best way to drain is unscrew the value on the botton of the radiator... its looks like a T top on a screw.. with a hole in the middle.. twist it til fluid comes out..
make sure you clean both sides of the cup where the new therm goes.. use a gasket with just enough paste to hole it in place.. too much and its a mess to get off next time|||yes, you have to drain the coolant. yes unclamping and disconecting the lower radiator hose is usually the easiest. There is usually some left in the engine so when you take the thermostat housing off it%26#039;ll make a mess, at least it does when I do it, so make sure you can get it cleaned up as quickly as possible so any animals don%26#039;t get into it and before it can soak into the ground. Antifreeze is deadly if ingested.|||Usually there%26#039;s a drain on the bottom of the radiator. You can just drain it about half way, but it%26#039;s cheaper in the long run to drain it all and put in new when you%26#039;re done. When you%26#039;re done, make sure you let it idle with the cap off %26#039;till you see the coolant flowing, then fill it and fill to the line in the overflow tank, then put the cap on and turn off the motor.|||You should change your coolant when changing the thermostat. It could be one of the reasons the thermostat went bad anyway. It is recommended that you change your coolant every 1-2 yrs unless it is high mileage coolant. After a period of time the coolant can become highly acidic and eat up engine parts causing engine failure..... and yes dispose of it properly it will kill any animals. You can drain it through the petcock on the bottom of the radiator or remove the lower hose when the engine is cool.|||Be sure to find out if your vehicle has a coolant bleeder bolt.
If it does take it out when refilling so you don%26#039;t get an air pocket in there that will cause trouble.Good luck.
As long as you can achieve a clean dry sealing surface, you should be golden.|||yes you do have to drain the coolant.
instead of unclamping the hose, on the bottom inside portion of the radiator there is a small petcock that you turn to drain the radiator.
drain it into a pan so you can put it back in. if you pull the hose you%26#039;ll probably lose a lot.
car overheating? i assume so, or else why would you want to replace the thermostat.|||You don%26#039;t have to drain it. You%26#039;ll get some fluid when you loosen the top radiator hose, but you%26#039;ll only lose a portion of it. Make sure the car is cooled off proprerly before you touch anyhting. If you do need to remove coolant there shoud be a petcock on the raiator you can open, but it may be plugged. If so you may have to remove the bottom hose.|||I wouldn%26#039;t recommend doing that. Take your radiator cap off first then locate your radiator `pet-cock%26#039; near the bottom of the radiator and turn it counterclockwise[with a pan under it]
Drain a couple of qts out of it then tighten it back up.
replace your thermostat [read directions] and refilll the radiator.|||Some cars have a petcock on the bottom of the radiator that will allow you to drain some fluid out. On others, you have to loosen the bottom hose and drain some out.
It is not necessary to drain it all out, normally, just a gallon or two will lower the level enough to replace the thermostat. Put a bucket underneath and then you can reuse the fluid. If the fluid is over 2 years old, then it would be a good time to replace it with fresh coolant.
good luck.|||assuming its on the top and not the bottom of the motor ,
drain just enough to lower the level under
where the thermstat is.
best way to drain is unscrew the value on the botton of the radiator... its looks like a T top on a screw.. with a hole in the middle.. twist it til fluid comes out..
make sure you clean both sides of the cup where the new therm goes.. use a gasket with just enough paste to hole it in place.. too much and its a mess to get off next time|||yes, you have to drain the coolant. yes unclamping and disconecting the lower radiator hose is usually the easiest. There is usually some left in the engine so when you take the thermostat housing off it%26#039;ll make a mess, at least it does when I do it, so make sure you can get it cleaned up as quickly as possible so any animals don%26#039;t get into it and before it can soak into the ground. Antifreeze is deadly if ingested.|||Usually there%26#039;s a drain on the bottom of the radiator. You can just drain it about half way, but it%26#039;s cheaper in the long run to drain it all and put in new when you%26#039;re done. When you%26#039;re done, make sure you let it idle with the cap off %26#039;till you see the coolant flowing, then fill it and fill to the line in the overflow tank, then put the cap on and turn off the motor.|||You should change your coolant when changing the thermostat. It could be one of the reasons the thermostat went bad anyway. It is recommended that you change your coolant every 1-2 yrs unless it is high mileage coolant. After a period of time the coolant can become highly acidic and eat up engine parts causing engine failure..... and yes dispose of it properly it will kill any animals. You can drain it through the petcock on the bottom of the radiator or remove the lower hose when the engine is cool.|||Be sure to find out if your vehicle has a coolant bleeder bolt.
If it does take it out when refilling so you don%26#039;t get an air pocket in there that will cause trouble.Good luck.
How to change thermostat on dodge dakota?
I HAVE A 94 DODGE DAKOTA WITH A 318 MOTOR. HOW DO I CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT ON IT? DO I HAVE TO MOVE THE AIR CONDITIONING PUMP AND THE ALTERNATOR TO GET TO IT? THANK YOU FOR YOUR INPUT.|||yes you do to get to it and do it right,if not you wont be able to clean the mating surface off good enough on it,that%26#039;s the easiest way to get to them,unless you can get to it just by moving the alternator out of the way,and its still a tight fit to get it back in right,they could have made it easier to get to on that one,i own a 93 and its no fun working on it,good luck.|||man,that%26#039;s a hard one right there ,try and drill in to it just a little and see if you can get a screw driver drove in to it and see if that will budge it out,i did that once and had to remove the brackets and all on it,and drill it out,thankfully its brass an will come out once it weakens some.
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What do yo use when changing a thermostat on a car?
Do you use any type of special sillicon or adherent??|||No. Only a new gasket. Clean both surfaces thouroughly (usually you have to scrape the old one off) and put a new gasket.|||Depends on the car. But most usually use a gasket, however some models do require the use of silicone.
How to change thermostat on 2001 chevy malibu?
i got a fault code that said my thermostat was bad, plus my temp gauge is resting flat on cold and doesn%26#039;t move. i already bought a new thermostat and was wondering if its worth putting it in on my own or taking it to a mechanic? how much would they charge?|||there is a large hose coming from the top of your Radiator it leads to the top of your engine. that is connected to the water neck should be two bolts holding it on take them off and should be right their. remember to drain about half of you Radiator fluid before you do. the petcock should be in the bottom of the radiator looks like a bow tie that%26#039;s the drain. remember to get gasket too after your done fill the radiator then start car with cap off it will bubble and the Fluid level will drop top it off put cap on then done.|||Hi! The thermostat is located at the driver%26#039;s seat. If you are going to change it, you have to follow the hose from the radiator until you see a tube with two bolts, inside of that is the thermostat.|||Before replacing the thermostat, you should check to verify that the electrical connection is intact and that the heat sensor is working! Since you say that the guage never moves, the wiring should be checked. Even with a defective thermostat the engine will usually heat up enough to show some reading! Unless you are in a very cold climate!
The computer checks the engine temp before starting and after a few minutes. If no change is registered, the computer sets the code.
Nothing is simple any more.
The computer checks the engine temp before starting and after a few minutes. If no change is registered, the computer sets the code.
Nothing is simple any more.
Where is the thermostat on a 04 mustang located.?
I%26#039;m traveling from Atlanta to Albany and my vehicle is running hot. My reservoir is still full so I assumed that the thermostat is inop, and I need to change it. I%26#039;ve changed thermostats in GM vehicles but never worked on any ford vehicles.|||The thermostat is in the same place, where the top rad. hose connects to the engine. If you would remove your radiator cap, with a cold engine, and idle the engine till up to operating temp. you can look in the opening and see the circulation. I would have a RADIATOR SHOP check it before I did any more. NEVER replace any part till you know the problem.
How do you change thermostat on a 1993 acura legend?
Car is a 1993 Legend L. New radiator, but before heat comes out of vents the temp needle goes all the way to Hot and then the Tstat opens and heat bellows from the vents. Heat is maintained unless I come to a stop in which case the needle goes back up to Hot and the tstat opens again.
Is this a basic bad tstat problem?|||i own a repair shop,and yes it could be a bad thermostat,,and also a bad cooling fan causing some of this to happen but he thermostat is located in the housing at the end of the top of the radiator hose on it,,there%26#039;s a housing there ,and its behind that housing,,you,ll have to drain some of the coolant out of it or it will gush out on you ,,then remove the housing ,and clean off all the old gasket,and replace the thermostat ,don%26#039;t over tighten the bolts up on these ,,the brake the housings real easy,,re-fill the system and that should be it,,start it,and make sure there are no leaks in it,,good luck,i hope this help,s|||it could be a bad thermostat or it could be that your fan isnt working.also flush out the cooling system.|||Find out if your coolant is full. If you have a leak somewhere then air pockets form and tend to get trapped espically in the heater core. If it is full then you could replace the t-stat with a high probability of success.
Is this a basic bad tstat problem?|||i own a repair shop,and yes it could be a bad thermostat,,and also a bad cooling fan causing some of this to happen but he thermostat is located in the housing at the end of the top of the radiator hose on it,,there%26#039;s a housing there ,and its behind that housing,,you,ll have to drain some of the coolant out of it or it will gush out on you ,,then remove the housing ,and clean off all the old gasket,and replace the thermostat ,don%26#039;t over tighten the bolts up on these ,,the brake the housings real easy,,re-fill the system and that should be it,,start it,and make sure there are no leaks in it,,good luck,i hope this help,s|||it could be a bad thermostat or it could be that your fan isnt working.also flush out the cooling system.|||Find out if your coolant is full. If you have a leak somewhere then air pockets form and tend to get trapped espically in the heater core. If it is full then you could replace the t-stat with a high probability of success.
Does anyone know how to change thermostat and sparks plugs on 04 Chevy Trailblazer?
I am currently having engine problems and i really dont know what is causing it. I am getting a code p0128 and they tell me that it could be the tstat or the spark plugs. Can some one please help? the car turns off everytime i go on reverse and when driving it looses power.|||You can read the coolant temperature in the dash. It should be between 195 - 205 when the motor has warmed up. The thermostat is a %26quot;bear%26quot; to get to on the 5.3 motor as it%26#039;s on the right side 3/4 of the way down near the fan shroud. The 4.3 thermostat is in the normal location. AC-Delco iridium spark plugs and * AC-Delco ignition wires should go on the vehicle at no more than 75,000 miles.
If the motor is loosing power at highway speeds one of the 6 or 8 ignition coils (you didn%26#039;t say which motor you had) may be at fault. Take it to a Chevrolet dealer an let them scan your on-board computer to find the real fault of your problem. Don%26#039;t use off-shore box-store ignition parts on a GM product.|||go to autozone.com and registar your car they have an illustrated free directions for doing the job. the spark plugs dont know or care if your in reverse or park. the thermostat doesnt either but the temp cpuld be being affected by the other issue. if the engine runs fine at idle in park but stall imediately when put in gear the problem could be #1 a bad nutral safety switch, #2 a vacuum leak, #3 the tps throttle possition sensor is acting up and loosing its signal the autozone sight will give you what that code is as well. please note the code isnt a direct pointer to the problem it gives a general system that is acting up
If the motor is loosing power at highway speeds one of the 6 or 8 ignition coils (you didn%26#039;t say which motor you had) may be at fault. Take it to a Chevrolet dealer an let them scan your on-board computer to find the real fault of your problem. Don%26#039;t use off-shore box-store ignition parts on a GM product.|||go to autozone.com and registar your car they have an illustrated free directions for doing the job. the spark plugs dont know or care if your in reverse or park. the thermostat doesnt either but the temp cpuld be being affected by the other issue. if the engine runs fine at idle in park but stall imediately when put in gear the problem could be #1 a bad nutral safety switch, #2 a vacuum leak, #3 the tps throttle possition sensor is acting up and loosing its signal the autozone sight will give you what that code is as well. please note the code isnt a direct pointer to the problem it gives a general system that is acting up
Changing an old thermostat to a new digital programmable one.?
I currently own either a 1F56W-444 or 1F56-444 thermostat from White Rodgers and I want to get a digital programmable thermostat. Which replacement should I look at getting for a 24v system?
More information about it is here:
http://www.emersonclimate.com/en-US/products/thermostats/dont_know_your_model_number/1e56-1f56/Pages/1e56-1f56.aspx|||Oh, it really doesn%26#039;t matter like that nice lady above me said. Get the right t-stat for your system. They come in a couple different flavors depending on what you are controlling but they are all 24 VAC. There%26#039;s %26quot;heat only,%26quot; there%26#039;s %26quot;heat/cool,%26quot; and then there%26#039;s any number of heat pump %26quot;cool/heat/backup/emergency/automatic switchover%26quot; thermostats (these can get complex). Buy the right one for your system. As far as how to hook up the wires and what they do, here%26#039;s a good primer:
http://toad.net/~jsmeenen/wiring.html
It ain%26#039;t definitive, but it%26#039;s a good starting point.|||ANY digital thermostat that works on 24 volts could be installed on your system -- it doesn%26#039;t matter at all what model you had before. As far as I know, all the t%26#039;stats at the building supply centers are 24 volt. It%26#039;s the US standard.
That link only shows you instructions and maintenance of your existing thermostat -- you don%26#039;t need that for anything if you are replacing it.
You are making this more complicated than it needs to be. Just buy a new 24 volt thermostat, take off the old one, reconnect the two wires to the new one, install the batteries and program it per the instructions that came with it. Simple.
More information about it is here:
http://www.emersonclimate.com/en-US/products/thermostats/dont_know_your_model_number/1e56-1f56/Pages/1e56-1f56.aspx|||Oh, it really doesn%26#039;t matter like that nice lady above me said. Get the right t-stat for your system. They come in a couple different flavors depending on what you are controlling but they are all 24 VAC. There%26#039;s %26quot;heat only,%26quot; there%26#039;s %26quot;heat/cool,%26quot; and then there%26#039;s any number of heat pump %26quot;cool/heat/backup/emergency/automatic switchover%26quot; thermostats (these can get complex). Buy the right one for your system. As far as how to hook up the wires and what they do, here%26#039;s a good primer:
http://toad.net/~jsmeenen/wiring.html
It ain%26#039;t definitive, but it%26#039;s a good starting point.|||ANY digital thermostat that works on 24 volts could be installed on your system -- it doesn%26#039;t matter at all what model you had before. As far as I know, all the t%26#039;stats at the building supply centers are 24 volt. It%26#039;s the US standard.
That link only shows you instructions and maintenance of your existing thermostat -- you don%26#039;t need that for anything if you are replacing it.
You are making this more complicated than it needs to be. Just buy a new 24 volt thermostat, take off the old one, reconnect the two wires to the new one, install the batteries and program it per the instructions that came with it. Simple.
How to check if Honeywell V8043E1012 value is working. I first changed thermostat and still no heat.?
I then traced the wiring but I%26#039;m not too sure if all the wiring is bad or that perhaps the value itself has shorted out. I am still able to manually open it and get heat while the other zones are on.
Is there a simple way to test the value without pulling down all the wiring ?????
Any and all suggestions are welcome|||You need to find the two leads coming from the valves coil. Using a voltmeter, check for 24V across the leads. If voltage is present and the valve does not open, its bad. If you do not get 24V and the thermostat is sending it, you have an open wire between the stat and valve. Could also be an open common usually jumped valve to valve.
Is there a simple way to test the value without pulling down all the wiring ?????
Any and all suggestions are welcome|||You need to find the two leads coming from the valves coil. Using a voltmeter, check for 24V across the leads. If voltage is present and the valve does not open, its bad. If you do not get 24V and the thermostat is sending it, you have an open wire between the stat and valve. Could also be an open common usually jumped valve to valve.
How much coolant should I need to remove to change thermostat? 2001 Hyundai Accent?
I want to change my thermostat, I%26#039;m wondering how much coolant I%26#039;ll have to take out, so I have a container to store it. 2001 Accent, 1.6L|||completely drain it and replace coolant while your there ...coolants are cheap...get empty milk jugs and such..
|||the cost of the thermostat costs more than the value of ur vehicle so it%26#039;s totaled i think.....|||all of it, check your owners manual for capacity specs|||I don%26#039;t know that car, but if it%26#039;s on top, you won%26#039;t need any, if it%26#039;s on the side, alots going to drain out, you will have to catch it and put it back in, if it%26#039;s on the bottom, then it%26#039;s all going to drain out, just use a pan or a couple of pans, (oil pans) you can add some water if you spill any, most people use too much antifreeze anyway for California.|||Whatever comes out of the hose with the thermostat will be enough|||not all of it yet you need to see where it some time it up top somtime its down so buy knowin that you can determine how must remember if you see rust in the system check for waterpump take the thermostat out so they whole system its flush|||just drain it down past the top hose. you are bound to lose some anti-freeze, but not alot.|||Antifreeze wears out over time, on the radiator there is a pet cock that you unscrew to catch the antifreeze with it will be between 1 to 2 gallons of fluid, the petcock normally is just under the lower radiator hose, it will look like a T with a hole in the middle you may have to use pliers to turn it one way then the other to break it loose, take radiator cap off first unscrew the petcock and let the fluid drain out completely, you may spill some at first cause the fluid may not run where you think it%26#039;s going to. mix the anti freeze 50/50 half water and half coolent.
|||the cost of the thermostat costs more than the value of ur vehicle so it%26#039;s totaled i think.....|||all of it, check your owners manual for capacity specs|||I don%26#039;t know that car, but if it%26#039;s on top, you won%26#039;t need any, if it%26#039;s on the side, alots going to drain out, you will have to catch it and put it back in, if it%26#039;s on the bottom, then it%26#039;s all going to drain out, just use a pan or a couple of pans, (oil pans) you can add some water if you spill any, most people use too much antifreeze anyway for California.|||Whatever comes out of the hose with the thermostat will be enough|||not all of it yet you need to see where it some time it up top somtime its down so buy knowin that you can determine how must remember if you see rust in the system check for waterpump take the thermostat out so they whole system its flush|||just drain it down past the top hose. you are bound to lose some anti-freeze, but not alot.|||Antifreeze wears out over time, on the radiator there is a pet cock that you unscrew to catch the antifreeze with it will be between 1 to 2 gallons of fluid, the petcock normally is just under the lower radiator hose, it will look like a T with a hole in the middle you may have to use pliers to turn it one way then the other to break it loose, take radiator cap off first unscrew the petcock and let the fluid drain out completely, you may spill some at first cause the fluid may not run where you think it%26#039;s going to. mix the anti freeze 50/50 half water and half coolent.
Changing the thermostat in my 97 pontiac grand am se 2.4l?
i pulled off the upper hose off the engine and no thermostat. so it is in another place is it easy to change and can i do it. and where abouts is it. any help would be a life saver. thank you|||The Thermostat is located at the end of your intake manifold. You will see a large %26quot;J%26quot; shaped pipe coming into the thermostat housing at the bottom. The housing also has 2 smaller hoses coming out the top and the side (and another large, short hose on the other side) 2 Bolts hold in the housing|||Yes, so you just pull the upper hose. I guess pulling the upper hose%26#039;s simply the law of the land
2005 Dodge Neon keeps overheating even after changing thermostat?
One day my car started overheating and the heat stopped working. Did a check online and figured it was my thermostat. Changed thermostat but its still doing the exact same thing.
Did a thermostat check in boiling water and it works
Water pump does not appear to be leaking or making any unusual noises
Car runs fine, other than overheating and no heat
Drained radiator for the first time in 4 years today. Color was orangish red (not sure what the original antifreeze color was). Very small amount came out, just drops in fact. I%26#039;ve never noticed any external coolant leaks.
Refilled it with water, ran for a few minutes, saw no leaks, drained again and it all came out. Top and bottom radiator hoses are both hot when engine is hot.
After refilling radiator with water, did a bleeding technique by running car on moderate incline with radiator cap off, saw lots of air bubbles for several minutes (looking into thermostat housing where radiator cap leads to). Not sure how long I should have let it run but I did it for about 4 or 5 minutes, then got impatient waiting for the bubbles to cease (seemed like it should have been done bubbling but Ive never done this before)
Water comes out of exhaust pipes but only occassionally, chalking it up to condensation. Did notice a VERY VERY TINY amount of white smoke today, but it went away and I chalked it up to it being about 40 or so degrees out today. Hopefully just steam.
Oil looks fine, no milky white or bubbly look to it at all.
Coolant resovoir does not smell like exhaust, nor does it bubble to my knowledge.
I noticed when I popped radiator cap off I had some reddish orange grime built up on it and a little on the inside of the thermostat housing.
I%26#039;ve done all of these checks and spent the last week trying to figure it out on my own. I am now resorting to help from others ;-) It%26#039;s still doing the exact same thing. It doesn%26#039;t really get too hot if I%26#039;m just idling, its when I start driving that it shoots up. It takes about 5-8 minutes for it to get close enough to the red to make me shut it off. The temp has been between 20 and 40 degrees here since this has happened.
-----
I would really appreciate any help. I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I go from thinking its compression problems, to the thermostat, to the water pump, to a hose leak, to a head gasket....I can%26#039;t figure it out. I don%26#039;t have a lot of money. I do have a 7 year powertrain warranty but have no idea if this kind of stuff is covered in it, and I%26#039;m nervous to take it to the dealer because I don%26#039;t have insurance and I have had some late payments in the recent past.|||Get as much resource as you can maybe is one option,however it could be quite time consuming,here
http://www.AutoInsuranceFree.info
is one resource i have had good experience.|||LOL, this is the best answer?
Sorry, but this seems like spam, but I appreciate your input.
It turned out to be just air pockets in my cooling system. After doing a proper bleeding technique I was able to fix the problem. Car runs great now! Thanks to all who replied!
|||Call up the dealership and have the vehicle towed and fixed under the warranty that you payed for.|||i think when you was installing the thermostat in it you might have cracked the housing or the intake on it,you need to check this because that will make it run hot on you and also make it loose coolant,you wont hear a head gasket making any noise on it,you,ll only notice a slight amount of smoke or steam from it ,you could have got a bad thermostat or that one is gone bad ,run a compression check on the engine and that will tell you if its got a blown head gasket or not on it without tearing the engine apart,the thermostat doesn%26#039;t have anything to do with the compression on it,since its covered just take it on and let the warranty cover it,you could have also bought a bad thermostat to put in it also,it happens a lot these days,good luck.|||I agree with the other poster, I think the head gasket is leaking. Have it towed to a Chrysler dealer. It%26#039;s still under warranty, so they will fix it. The fact that you are late on some payments is irrelevent to the service department. Headgaskets are covered, and the tow is covered as well. It won%26#039;t cost you a dime.
Good luck.|||If you had a bad head gasket, you would definetly get the milky color in you oil.
You have to finish bleeding out the air in the cooling system.
You said that you %26quot;ran out of patience, waiting for the bubbles- I never done this before%26quot;. THAT was your mistake.
In order to bleed out all of the air....
Fill up the radiator with antifreeze, if not full already.
Leave off the cap and start the engine.
Wait for the coolant to rise up and out of the radiator (with engine running)
When the thermostat opens up - the coolant level in the radiator will drop suddenly. (this takes 10-15 min, depending on how cold it is outside and whether the engine is a little warm or completely cold)
**At this point (level drops suddenly) the remaining air that%26#039;s trapped will release into the radiator and you can see the coolant circulate inside the radiator-when you refill**
That%26#039;s when you refill the radiator with more antifreeze. leave some for the reserve tank, because of the air trapped in the heater core.
replace the radiator cap and turn off the motor. Done.......
I%26#039;ve talked to others that use the %26quot;bubble method%26quot; for bleeding out air, but I prefer the method that I just gave you, because it always works.
Sure it%26#039;s a little messy, it wastes a little antifreeze and it%26#039;s not for wimps.
But it ALWAYS WORKS.|||You really did a good check, however im sorry to say that your problem is either a blown head gasket or a cracked head, the combustion gases in the water jacket are creating a vapor lock type of condition stopping the flow of coolant (that%26#039;s why the heat quite working) those neon%26#039;s are known for head gasket problems. it%26#039;s a pretty major task to replace the head and or gasket, I%26#039;ve done a bunch of them and there always a pain in the azz, but yea, that%26#039;s what the problem is.
Did a thermostat check in boiling water and it works
Water pump does not appear to be leaking or making any unusual noises
Car runs fine, other than overheating and no heat
Drained radiator for the first time in 4 years today. Color was orangish red (not sure what the original antifreeze color was). Very small amount came out, just drops in fact. I%26#039;ve never noticed any external coolant leaks.
Refilled it with water, ran for a few minutes, saw no leaks, drained again and it all came out. Top and bottom radiator hoses are both hot when engine is hot.
After refilling radiator with water, did a bleeding technique by running car on moderate incline with radiator cap off, saw lots of air bubbles for several minutes (looking into thermostat housing where radiator cap leads to). Not sure how long I should have let it run but I did it for about 4 or 5 minutes, then got impatient waiting for the bubbles to cease (seemed like it should have been done bubbling but Ive never done this before)
Water comes out of exhaust pipes but only occassionally, chalking it up to condensation. Did notice a VERY VERY TINY amount of white smoke today, but it went away and I chalked it up to it being about 40 or so degrees out today. Hopefully just steam.
Oil looks fine, no milky white or bubbly look to it at all.
Coolant resovoir does not smell like exhaust, nor does it bubble to my knowledge.
I noticed when I popped radiator cap off I had some reddish orange grime built up on it and a little on the inside of the thermostat housing.
I%26#039;ve done all of these checks and spent the last week trying to figure it out on my own. I am now resorting to help from others ;-) It%26#039;s still doing the exact same thing. It doesn%26#039;t really get too hot if I%26#039;m just idling, its when I start driving that it shoots up. It takes about 5-8 minutes for it to get close enough to the red to make me shut it off. The temp has been between 20 and 40 degrees here since this has happened.
-----
I would really appreciate any help. I am at my wits end trying to figure this out. I go from thinking its compression problems, to the thermostat, to the water pump, to a hose leak, to a head gasket....I can%26#039;t figure it out. I don%26#039;t have a lot of money. I do have a 7 year powertrain warranty but have no idea if this kind of stuff is covered in it, and I%26#039;m nervous to take it to the dealer because I don%26#039;t have insurance and I have had some late payments in the recent past.|||Get as much resource as you can maybe is one option,however it could be quite time consuming,here
http://www.AutoInsuranceFree.info
is one resource i have had good experience.|||LOL, this is the best answer?
Sorry, but this seems like spam, but I appreciate your input.
It turned out to be just air pockets in my cooling system. After doing a proper bleeding technique I was able to fix the problem. Car runs great now! Thanks to all who replied!
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|||Call up the dealership and have the vehicle towed and fixed under the warranty that you payed for.|||i think when you was installing the thermostat in it you might have cracked the housing or the intake on it,you need to check this because that will make it run hot on you and also make it loose coolant,you wont hear a head gasket making any noise on it,you,ll only notice a slight amount of smoke or steam from it ,you could have got a bad thermostat or that one is gone bad ,run a compression check on the engine and that will tell you if its got a blown head gasket or not on it without tearing the engine apart,the thermostat doesn%26#039;t have anything to do with the compression on it,since its covered just take it on and let the warranty cover it,you could have also bought a bad thermostat to put in it also,it happens a lot these days,good luck.|||I agree with the other poster, I think the head gasket is leaking. Have it towed to a Chrysler dealer. It%26#039;s still under warranty, so they will fix it. The fact that you are late on some payments is irrelevent to the service department. Headgaskets are covered, and the tow is covered as well. It won%26#039;t cost you a dime.
Good luck.|||If you had a bad head gasket, you would definetly get the milky color in you oil.
You have to finish bleeding out the air in the cooling system.
You said that you %26quot;ran out of patience, waiting for the bubbles- I never done this before%26quot;. THAT was your mistake.
In order to bleed out all of the air....
Fill up the radiator with antifreeze, if not full already.
Leave off the cap and start the engine.
Wait for the coolant to rise up and out of the radiator (with engine running)
When the thermostat opens up - the coolant level in the radiator will drop suddenly. (this takes 10-15 min, depending on how cold it is outside and whether the engine is a little warm or completely cold)
**At this point (level drops suddenly) the remaining air that%26#039;s trapped will release into the radiator and you can see the coolant circulate inside the radiator-when you refill**
That%26#039;s when you refill the radiator with more antifreeze. leave some for the reserve tank, because of the air trapped in the heater core.
replace the radiator cap and turn off the motor. Done.......
I%26#039;ve talked to others that use the %26quot;bubble method%26quot; for bleeding out air, but I prefer the method that I just gave you, because it always works.
Sure it%26#039;s a little messy, it wastes a little antifreeze and it%26#039;s not for wimps.
But it ALWAYS WORKS.|||You really did a good check, however im sorry to say that your problem is either a blown head gasket or a cracked head, the combustion gases in the water jacket are creating a vapor lock type of condition stopping the flow of coolant (that%26#039;s why the heat quite working) those neon%26#039;s are known for head gasket problems. it%26#039;s a pretty major task to replace the head and or gasket, I%26#039;ve done a bunch of them and there always a pain in the azz, but yea, that%26#039;s what the problem is.
How do you change thermostat 1995 monte carlo?
i googled it and it told me to first remove the air filter and housing.
Second, remove throttle body assembly.
Third, remove metal tube leading to thermostat.
i tried this but i can seem to get the throttle body off. anyone have
any suggestions? i don%26#039;t want to take it to a mechanic. its a 3.4 v6.
thanks|||Once you have the throttle body unbolted and the linkage unhooked.
You can either smach it with a soft rubber mallet, or your hand.
There is a rubber seal and it is just melted into place - it will need to be replaced also.
Then you can get to the tube, and the problem wont be so bad
Second, remove throttle body assembly.
Third, remove metal tube leading to thermostat.
i tried this but i can seem to get the throttle body off. anyone have
any suggestions? i don%26#039;t want to take it to a mechanic. its a 3.4 v6.
thanks|||Once you have the throttle body unbolted and the linkage unhooked.
You can either smach it with a soft rubber mallet, or your hand.
There is a rubber seal and it is just melted into place - it will need to be replaced also.
Then you can get to the tube, and the problem wont be so bad
How difficult is it to change thermostat on 1996 Audi A6?
Have been quoted a price of $260 to change it. This seems very high and wonder if I should attempt it myself. Thermostat cost is $14.|||If its a V6 the time to change it is 3.6hrs its not an easy one to get at.|||You can do it yourself. Some have done it in 30 min. I scanned the A6 C4 forum. Unlike 1999+ A6 C5 you do not have to remove the front of the car and water pump to get at it. http://search.audiworld.com/se鈥?/a> type in theromostat and scroll to 100 / A6 C4
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How difficult is it to change thermostat for impala?
i bought a thermostat i need to know from 1-10 how hard is it to change 10 being very hard.|||what year ? on the old v8 powered ones it is 2 bolts and a gasket ..takes about ten minuets...it%26#039;s a 1..
i personally have had more trouble with some wiper blades i have run across..but that is just me...lol|||1 if you have a little knowledge of cars.|||a bit harder than an oil change or wiper blades.. i%26#039;ll rate it at a 2
i personally have had more trouble with some wiper blades i have run across..but that is just me...lol|||1 if you have a little knowledge of cars.|||a bit harder than an oil change or wiper blades.. i%26#039;ll rate it at a 2
Should goodyear change thermostat anytime a water pump is replaced?
Charged me $400 to replace water pump on 93 aerostar. Made it five miles to work before it overheated, had it towed back and now they tell me it needs a thermostat. You would think a pressure test would have told them I needed a thermostat? Another $74 for thermostat.|||complain ,complain COMPLAIN!!! go back to the shop when they are likley busy an ***** to the service writer. goodyear sucks, so yeah i do have an axe to grind. if you make a scene they will most likley do it for nothing(%26#039;stat and gasket costs like 6 dollars) these idiots replaced the in tank fuel pump in my SHO taurus and never hooked the fuel filler back up!! 7 gallons of gas on the ground(i was up wind)|||sounds like u didnt need the waterpump....id [politely] write Goodyear abt how unhappy you are...i did it with advance auto...the told me i needed a battery...the new one had the same 12 volts on the gauge...the guy said the computer had to reset,,,i said ur nuts...the next day i had a new alternator installed....the gave me a refund and an apology for the battery...a nice letter/e mail..good luk|||i am assuming you took it to the shop originally for an overheating problem?? if they replaced the water pump for that problem they should have at a minimum checked it for overheating when they were done. somewhere they should have a book in the shop that shows labor hours to replace parts, ask to see that, they won%26#039;t want to show you, but, insist in it!!! $74 thermostat change????!!!!! WOW. around here that would be almost 2 hours of labor costs. 5 or 6 bucks to buy a thermostat at almost any parts store. I have never spent more than 50 bucks for a water pump!! i don%26#039;t beleve a pressure test would pick up a faulty thermostat.|||Whether or not they SHOULD have, I ALWAYS change the thermostat when I replace a water pump. Did you tell them to replace it? Shops like that usually only do work on the repair order, nothing else. If I were you, I%26#039;d do it myself next time or take it to a REAL mechanic, the guys at places like you went to are all recent vo-tech grads that can%26#039;t get a job in a real shop. You could have done this job yourself for under $100, INCLUDING the thermostat.|||you got ripped off big time!
Broke something while changing the thermostat?
While my husband was taking the thermostat housing off of our 3.3L 200bbl engine, he accidentally hit a sensor type part on the left and it looks like it broke. What is the part and can it be replaced? The problem we are having now is that the car stalls when it is idleing.|||need year make model|||Buy yourself a Chilton or Haynes manual. They%26#039;re about 20 bucks from any major auto supply store. The information contained in those books is tremendous. If you can turn a wrench and a screwdriver, those books will tell you how to do just about every repair a car owner can do by himself.
The book will tell you what that part is.
The book will tell you what that part is.
Changing thermostat on 2004 kia optima?
i have a 2004 optima(4cyl) and i believe the thermostat is stuck closed cause its been overheating at idle so i let it get hot and i checked both radiator hoses and one was burning hot and the bottom one was cool enough for me to put my hand on it. so i was wondering if anyone could help me out and tell me where its located on my kia? thanks so much|||Thermostats are usually situated at top hoses ends engine side.
Rarely at bottom hose end engine side.
Rarely at bottom hose end engine side.
Is changing the thermostat on honda civic a pain or pretty easy?
My heater is crapping out on me and its winter and snowing, kind of need my windows defrosted before i drive to work in the morning, someone suggested might be the thermostat, I know what it is but havent changed it on this kind of car before, wondering if anyone thats doen it could tell me if its pretty quick and simple or does it take a little bit of time? thanks|||it is only a pain if you dont have an extension about one foot long, the bottom bolt is nested down between the head and the top of the tranny. just remove the air cleaner and air pipe then go to town on it should be two 12 or 13mm bolts make sure to get the rubber thermostat housing seal also %26quot;most rip when removing%26quot; and your good to go!!|||It could be a number of other problems, possibly the heater core, blower motor, or an electrical problem. What exactly is the problem? The thermostat controls the circulation of coolant through the radiator and engine. Have you noticed any fluctuations in engine temperature? If your car is running normally and your heater isn%26#039;t working, I would check the heater-related components first. Signs of a bad heater core include condensation on windows/windshield, %26quot;sweet%26quot; smell when the heater is turned on, wet spots on the floor, and coolant loss.|||Its 2 bolts and 5 minute%26#039;s of work and topping off the antifreeze once done oh yea and its a 10mm bolt and honda does not use a 13mm bolt underneath the hood
Is it necessary to drain all the antifreeze when changing the thermostat on a truck?
It depends on where the thermostat is located. You only need to drain it so that the antifreeze is lower than the thermostat. (usually less than half)
If you don%26#039;t drain it , it will only run out.|||I usually recommend changing the antifreeze when changing the thermostat unless the coolant has recently been changed.It depends on the age and condition of the antifreeze, generally most people do not change a thermostat until age and corrosion have destroyed it and the antifreeze is usually well past it%26#039;s useful life and yes should be drained and flushed at the same time. Coolant does age and breakdown and should be replaced on average after about 3-4 years of service. You can test your antifreeze with a litmus strip (measures the acidity of the antifreeze), as the coolant breaks down it turns acidic and is hard on the heater core, radiator and water pump seal, not only that but an acid flowing through metal builds up a static charge and that charge has to dissipate by arcing to the metal causing pitting and corrosion.|||depends on where its located the higher the location of the thermostat the less you need to drain the lower the location of the thermostat yes drain the radiator and when i say higher i mean in relation to the radiator and fill tank|||if it has come time to change the coolant thermostat, then yes it is advisable to change out all the coolant.
If you don%26#039;t drain it , it will only run out.|||I usually recommend changing the antifreeze when changing the thermostat unless the coolant has recently been changed.It depends on the age and condition of the antifreeze, generally most people do not change a thermostat until age and corrosion have destroyed it and the antifreeze is usually well past it%26#039;s useful life and yes should be drained and flushed at the same time. Coolant does age and breakdown and should be replaced on average after about 3-4 years of service. You can test your antifreeze with a litmus strip (measures the acidity of the antifreeze), as the coolant breaks down it turns acidic and is hard on the heater core, radiator and water pump seal, not only that but an acid flowing through metal builds up a static charge and that charge has to dissipate by arcing to the metal causing pitting and corrosion.|||depends on where its located the higher the location of the thermostat the less you need to drain the lower the location of the thermostat yes drain the radiator and when i say higher i mean in relation to the radiator and fill tank|||if it has come time to change the coolant thermostat, then yes it is advisable to change out all the coolant.
When changing a thermostat, do you need RTV, or will the gasket be good enough?
Do you need to put RTV around the gasket? or will just the gasket be good enough? Thanks for any help.|||Never put rtv on a gasket,if they wanted you to rtv it would come with the gasket.|||you can put a very thin coat on it,not a bead.|||i like to use a thin layer of rtv on both sides of the gasket just to be sure no leaks.|||very little on each side of the gasket.|||Use the RTV on both sides of the gasket just to play it safe.|||rtv when wet is slippery and when you use it on a gasket the gasket can shift therefore not sealing i always use just the gasket.|||You shouldn%26#039;t really need to.Providing all traces of the old gasket are removed should be good enough.|||This is a mechanic preference, i do, some dont, it%26#039;ll work either way|||gasket is enough but u can rtv to maKE SURE IN MY CASE I NEVER USE RTV AND THE GASKET NEVER LEAKS
Changing a thermostat on a '99 Plymouth Neon?
Can anyone comment on how difficult is it to change the thermostat on a %26#039;99 Plymouth Neon?? Parts run $25 bucks, but I would like to save labor if possible. Thanks.|||its pretty easy find the radiator the big silver thing in the frontthen find the upper hose and find where it meets the engine there there will be a couple of studs take those out lift it off and pull out the thermostat out of the hose and then put in the new one THE RIGHT WAY and put the hose back on and make sure the temp of the new thermostat is the same|||follow the top radiator hose to the motor. unscrew the tobolts and take off the hose clamps. lift the metal spout the two bolt were holding down and theres the thermostat. You%26#039;ll lose a little antifreeze, so you need to add back. I recomend the pre-mixed stuff.|||it not something you can do, if you aint familar with car and tools
Changing thermostat in a 5.9 cummins diesel
I have a 04.5 2500 dodge with the 5.9 HO cummins how hard is it to change the thermostat|||It is pretty much a piece of cake, book time is only 1.0 hours, you can do it....
'97 Mercury Voyager van--changed thermostat for $130 but still running hot and blowing cold air?
Heater put out heat for one day after changing the thermostat. Any ideas? Young workmate is just a janitor with a baby and needs the car to get to work. Thanks!|||Check the coolant level. They may have forgot to purge the air from the system.
禄禄禄|||tell your buddy, after hes driven his car, shut it down and feel the radiator next to the fan, feel the fins of the radiator, if he feels cold spots, it needs flushing. in matter of fact, tell him to flush the entire cooling system.|||Heater core???|||As Mr. T says, recheck the coolant level. Also make sure the system has been bled correctly. Many cars have a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing or in one of the coolant lines. Loosen that bleeder screw with the van off and then fill the reservoir until fluid comes out then retighten.|||things that affect heat,,,,1..coolant level...is air in system.?..2.heater blend door...stuck?..,,3 heater control valve...is hot water[coolant going into core]?.4 bad heater core...flush it out to see...5 waterump is bad...not cirulating coolant...6...thermostate is stuck...again...it happens..
禄禄禄|||tell your buddy, after hes driven his car, shut it down and feel the radiator next to the fan, feel the fins of the radiator, if he feels cold spots, it needs flushing. in matter of fact, tell him to flush the entire cooling system.|||Heater core???|||As Mr. T says, recheck the coolant level. Also make sure the system has been bled correctly. Many cars have a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing or in one of the coolant lines. Loosen that bleeder screw with the van off and then fill the reservoir until fluid comes out then retighten.|||things that affect heat,,,,1..coolant level...is air in system.?..2.heater blend door...stuck?..,,3 heater control valve...is hot water[coolant going into core]?.4 bad heater core...flush it out to see...5 waterump is bad...not cirulating coolant...6...thermostate is stuck...again...it happens..
How do I bleed the coolant in a 92 Accord when changing the thermostat?
If you are asking how to bleed the coolant and it%26#039;s after you have changed the thermostat just fill it with 50/50 water coolant and let it run till it reaches running temp. During this warm up time add coolant as needed and when it is at running temp top off the radiator. If it only has a coolant reservoir
just keep the coolant at the hot full level.
just keep the coolant at the hot full level.
What is a price with labor for changing a thermostat on a 1993 Honda Accord?
the labor charge is one half hour to replace the thermostat so you can expect about $40-50 for labor. The thermostat and gasket are less than $10. You will lose coolant when the thermostat is replaced so you%26#039;ll spend about $10 for the replacement coolant. Your price should be about $100 to replace the thermostat.
hope that answers your question|||Well that is hard to give you an exact dollar amount as labor rates vary from location to location.
if you find out the labor rate in your area -- call a shop-- and multiply it by 0.5 (factory book says it pays 1/2 hour) -- then you will have the labor cost. Beware some shops will not bill less than 1 full hour. So call some places and ask.
The thermostat is going to be priced differently in much the same way. After market parts stores will be cheaper than a dealer. Then in the After market, there will be a variance between stores NAPA is usually higher than Autozone, etc.
Your best bet is to get the yellow pages out, look up Auto Parts, Automobile repair, pick up the phone and call around.
hope that answers your question|||Well that is hard to give you an exact dollar amount as labor rates vary from location to location.
if you find out the labor rate in your area -- call a shop-- and multiply it by 0.5 (factory book says it pays 1/2 hour) -- then you will have the labor cost. Beware some shops will not bill less than 1 full hour. So call some places and ask.
The thermostat is going to be priced differently in much the same way. After market parts stores will be cheaper than a dealer. Then in the After market, there will be a variance between stores NAPA is usually higher than Autozone, etc.
Your best bet is to get the yellow pages out, look up Auto Parts, Automobile repair, pick up the phone and call around.
Changing analog thermostat to digital?
Hi, I am planning on changing my old analog thermostat to a new digital one that will help me control the heat better, at different times etc.
I%26#039;m not an electrician but trust myself enough to do certain jobs with the right instructions.
One immediate question I have though is that I notice that my old analog thermo only has one black cable running into it. Question is, will this be sufficient for any digial thermo I buy?
I haven%26#039;t yet bought the thermo and curious about this before doing so.
Thanks,|||The black cable connected to your present thermostat has at least two conductors. The thermostat is essentially a switch, turning the heater on or off as needed.
The type thermostat you require will depend on whether you use electric heat or a furnace. One type will switch high current AC to the heaters, the other switches the 24V controls on the furnace. Many low voltage thermostats will also have connections for a central air conditioning system built in.
When installing it is a relatively simple procedure to swap the two wires from the old thermostat to the new thermostat. It%26#039;s a good idea to shut off power while doing this. Instructions are included with the new thermostat with wiring and programming explanations.|||the cable will have several wires in it, depending on if you have central a/c or not. the red and white wire control the heat portion of the stat. But all in all you probably have four wires at terminals marked r-w-g-y. Just remove from one and move the the new stat. Make sure you turn off the power to furnace when yo begin. Make sure your new stat is for a compatible system like: 24v forced air, boilers etc . . .|||ditto on above answers...i%26#039;ll add that you should be sure to use a name brand tstat such as honeywell or white rodgers,,not the $20 one on sale..i also prefer the tstats that still take batteries,,they wont act up if furnace limit opens such as when running a long time to recover home temp after setting it back for hours..just a tip........dan
I%26#039;m not an electrician but trust myself enough to do certain jobs with the right instructions.
One immediate question I have though is that I notice that my old analog thermo only has one black cable running into it. Question is, will this be sufficient for any digial thermo I buy?
I haven%26#039;t yet bought the thermo and curious about this before doing so.
Thanks,|||The black cable connected to your present thermostat has at least two conductors. The thermostat is essentially a switch, turning the heater on or off as needed.
The type thermostat you require will depend on whether you use electric heat or a furnace. One type will switch high current AC to the heaters, the other switches the 24V controls on the furnace. Many low voltage thermostats will also have connections for a central air conditioning system built in.
When installing it is a relatively simple procedure to swap the two wires from the old thermostat to the new thermostat. It%26#039;s a good idea to shut off power while doing this. Instructions are included with the new thermostat with wiring and programming explanations.|||the cable will have several wires in it, depending on if you have central a/c or not. the red and white wire control the heat portion of the stat. But all in all you probably have four wires at terminals marked r-w-g-y. Just remove from one and move the the new stat. Make sure you turn off the power to furnace when yo begin. Make sure your new stat is for a compatible system like: 24v forced air, boilers etc . . .|||ditto on above answers...i%26#039;ll add that you should be sure to use a name brand tstat such as honeywell or white rodgers,,not the $20 one on sale..i also prefer the tstats that still take batteries,,they wont act up if furnace limit opens such as when running a long time to recover home temp after setting it back for hours..just a tip........dan
Changing the thermostat for a 1998 Civic?
the thermostat recently went on my civic so i went and bought a new one im pretty sure i know how to change it but i just want to make sure im right?? what is the correct way to change it?|||SOME of them are on the LOWER hose - not sure about yours.|||The side with the spring goes towards the engine.|||make sure your car is cold before u start the job. empty your radiator and turn the heater control to hot, and try to blow out as much coolant as u can to prepare the system to be flushed as now is the time to do it. follow the lower radiator hose up to the thermostat housing, remove the clamp and then the hose. there will be 2 10mm head bolts holdong the housing on as well as a third bolt holding ground wires, remove the ground wires and then the holding bolts. shove a garden hose down all your openings and flush till clean water comes out. put the new thermostat with a new gasket into place and reverse the removal steps. the TRICK to filling up the coolant. a couple of inches behind the thermostat, on the housing, is a bleeder for the coolant. because u flushed with water, pour pure coolant up to 3/4 of a gallon in to the radiator. mix whats left with water to 50/50 and top off. fire up your car and look for any leaks. good luck
Suggestions on changing Thermostat in a 94 grand Prix 3.1?
They put the thing in the dumbest location! Does anyone have a simple attack method?|||refer to your owner%26#039;s manuel and if that doesn%26#039;t work lookit up online or in car repair for dummies|||Take it to your mechanic!
Is changing the thermostat on a water heater easy enough for a novice?
Of course, I have never done this type of task before but I need to know if I am looking towards trouble if I consider this task on my own? Help|||knowledge is key, 2 t-stats, upper and lower on most WH%26#039;s. look on back of t-stat package and read wireing diagram. The only problem that I%26#039;ve encountered is that some wires may be too short when you change to new t-stat. You can get some 12 gauge wire from hardware store and possible need some yellow wire nuts to compensate for wire shortness if you run into that problem.Set both t-stats at same temperature. A $12 volt ohm meter will be good to have to make sure you don%26#039;t get shocked ( always check for no power before touching wires or t-stat) it%26#039;s also good for testing elements for continuity (seeing if they are good or fried)|||First and foremost, make sure you turn the electric off for the heater. Double check with a meter or probe that the electric is shut for the heater. Follow the manufacturers directions and you won%26#039;t have a problem changing the t-stat. Are you sure the t-stat is not functioning??|||Label wires, keep track of where the screws came from, keep the old part until you have the new part installed and tested and you should be okay. You may also want to take photos as you go along as a mental jog should problems arise.
GL.|||The thermostat usually the last thing to go on a h2o htr. What is your problem. Is it gas or electric. Provide more info.|||Hmmm. Do you mean change the setting or do you mean change out the thermostat for a new one? See the other answers to just change the setting.
Removing and replacing the thermostat is not a job for a novice. Find someone who has done it and have them help you.|||It depends on the brand or style of thermostat , most of what I deal with use a clip to hold it against the tank , just lift enough to release the Th and slide it up (some can be tricky) of course you need the breakers off and disconnect the wires (keep track of where they go)
some have little nuts or screws to hold the Th up to the tank another has a probe that screws into the tank
I would guess your heating elements are the problem|||Changing the stat is fairly easy. Make sure you turn the power off first. Other than that you might want to make sure your changing the right part before you go to the trouble.. God Bless.|||Changing the thermostat is a VERY simple job, just 2 bolts and 2 wires. Look at it and make notes as to where the wires go. Good luck with your project.|||If you are just changing the Thermostat, then you have to switch off the electric supply to the thermostat first which is ususally a switch by the Immersion hater. Then remove the plastic cover, and unscrew the wirs to the thermostst. Withdraw the old thermostst and fit the new one and re connect the wires as they were fitted. Replace the cover, and switch the electric back on. Job Done!!
There is no need to drain the tank if it is only the thermostat to be changed.|||I guess the question is why do you think you need to adjust the thermostat?
If your water has been consistently hot and suddenly it%26#039;s not, you have other issues (bad element(s), etc).
Below is a link showing, step by step, how to do it...|||It should just be a dial somewhere near the bottom. It%26#039;s just a dial and it says hot one way and cold the other. Turn it whichever way you want.
GL.|||The thermostat usually the last thing to go on a h2o htr. What is your problem. Is it gas or electric. Provide more info.|||Hmmm. Do you mean change the setting or do you mean change out the thermostat for a new one? See the other answers to just change the setting.
Removing and replacing the thermostat is not a job for a novice. Find someone who has done it and have them help you.|||It depends on the brand or style of thermostat , most of what I deal with use a clip to hold it against the tank , just lift enough to release the Th and slide it up (some can be tricky) of course you need the breakers off and disconnect the wires (keep track of where they go)
some have little nuts or screws to hold the Th up to the tank another has a probe that screws into the tank
I would guess your heating elements are the problem|||Changing the stat is fairly easy. Make sure you turn the power off first. Other than that you might want to make sure your changing the right part before you go to the trouble.. God Bless.|||Changing the thermostat is a VERY simple job, just 2 bolts and 2 wires. Look at it and make notes as to where the wires go. Good luck with your project.|||If you are just changing the Thermostat, then you have to switch off the electric supply to the thermostat first which is ususally a switch by the Immersion hater. Then remove the plastic cover, and unscrew the wirs to the thermostst. Withdraw the old thermostst and fit the new one and re connect the wires as they were fitted. Replace the cover, and switch the electric back on. Job Done!!
There is no need to drain the tank if it is only the thermostat to be changed.|||I guess the question is why do you think you need to adjust the thermostat?
If your water has been consistently hot and suddenly it%26#039;s not, you have other issues (bad element(s), etc).
Below is a link showing, step by step, how to do it...|||It should just be a dial somewhere near the bottom. It%26#039;s just a dial and it says hot one way and cold the other. Turn it whichever way you want.
2001 Montero sport that the temp guage keeps rising even after changing the thermostat twice.?
I have changed the thermostat on 2001 Montero sport twice and the fan clutch. Temp gauge still rises high when at a stop. Dealership service checked twice and stated its OK. But why does the gauge rise? Don%26#039;t want to overheat the engine.|||Could be a plugged radiator.|||its possible the bottom of the radiator is stopped up on it,that will cause it to over heat a slight bit,and cause the gage to rise on it,it may come down to you having to have the entire cooling system flushed out on it,that may cure it,and it can also be a water pump going bad on it also,if you cant find it and flushing it out doesn%26#039;t cure it have a shop check it,they may be able to find the problem with it,flushing one out usually helps it though,good luck.
When changing the thermostat is it a must to?
put sealant on the gasket? Or do you even put sealant on a gasket? And about how much do you use? I just took off the thermostat housing and there was no thermostat in there. I guess that%26#039;s why it always ran cold. So Im not positive how the thermostat goes in the housing. Should the spring part be facing down, away from the upper radiator hose? The car is a 1997 Dodge Intrepid 3.5 liter.|||Ok.. the thermostat spring portion should be positioned so it%26#039;s inside the engine block. It%26#039;s really the only way it can go in.
If the gasket is paper material, then DEFINETELY use a gasket sealer on both sides. If you don%26#039;t, you run the risk of a leak and get to do the job all over again.
IF the gasket is rubber, you put nothing on it. If the gasket is an o-ring only, you put nothing on it.
ONLY if it%26#039;s a paper gasket.|||The spring faced downward.
The upper half of the housing is likely too small to accommodate the thermostat if it%26#039;s improperly installed.
Use only a gasket, no sealant ever.|||the spring goes towards the engine, the pointed end goes towards the radiator,and you probably wont have to use a sealant on the housing if its in good shape,it never hurts though to check it and add some if needed,i usually don%26#039;t have to use it on those car though they seal up pretty good,good luck.|||Dodge man and eric are right, and no sealant if gskt is rubber and if you used paper yes sealant and use a thin amount both sides. You don%26#039;t want excessive sealant getting into the thermostat
Good Luck
If the gasket is paper material, then DEFINETELY use a gasket sealer on both sides. If you don%26#039;t, you run the risk of a leak and get to do the job all over again.
IF the gasket is rubber, you put nothing on it. If the gasket is an o-ring only, you put nothing on it.
ONLY if it%26#039;s a paper gasket.|||The spring faced downward.
The upper half of the housing is likely too small to accommodate the thermostat if it%26#039;s improperly installed.
Use only a gasket, no sealant ever.|||the spring goes towards the engine, the pointed end goes towards the radiator,and you probably wont have to use a sealant on the housing if its in good shape,it never hurts though to check it and add some if needed,i usually don%26#039;t have to use it on those car though they seal up pretty good,good luck.|||Dodge man and eric are right, and no sealant if gskt is rubber and if you used paper yes sealant and use a thin amount both sides. You don%26#039;t want excessive sealant getting into the thermostat
Good Luck
Changing the thermostat in a Ford Aspire?
I need to change to the thermostat in a 1994 Ford Aspire. The bottom bolt holding the thermostat cover is impossible to reach with a socket or wrench. There is a metal coolant tube that is in front of the bottom bolt. I can%26#039;t come from the side of the bolt because the thermostat cover prevents it. Does anyone know an easy way to reach the thermostat on this car ?|||i always say buy a shop manual...best 15 dollars/pounds you can spend...step by step...and next time at the shop u will know more and b less likely to get ripped off.|||A friend of mine has one but his is a year newer than yours.He had me do work on his because it needed a lot of work on it.The way to get to that bottom bolt is to remove the tube your talking about.The book I used to fix his was a chiltons manual.Everything that I had to fix on his was easy to do.hgm20002000@yahoo.com
Is changing a heating thermostat as easy as changing a light fixture?
I have an older round thermostat for my oil-burning heating system, and I just bought a digital model on clearance. I%26#039;ve changed light fixtures, installed ceiling fans, and done some other simple electrical work. Will I be able to change this thermostat easily? Anything I should watch out for? Or, any handy tips?|||You should be able to handle a thermostat. Heat only, two wires.
Heat/cool ,4 wires. There should be a jumper that goes from RC to RH, on some models. But, White to W terminal, Red to R terminal (Jumper to RH and RC) Green to G terminal and yellow or blue to the Y terminal. Level and secure to wall with anchors. Read instructions on t-stat for any specifics, but basically that is it. Change 1 wire at a time from thermostat to thermostat. Shut off power to oil burner before starting.|||Very easy.
There%26#039;s one red wire, and one white wire. (If you have central a/c, there will be an additional yellow wire.)
Follow the schematic in the instructions for the correct placement of the wires.|||If the thermostat is modern, it will accommodate both heating and cooling and will include a clock for night setbacks. So I%26#039;d say it%26#039;s about twice as complicated as an ordinary fixture, closer to a dual-switched circuit. But there are detailed directions in the box. I am sure that if you follow them carefully, you will have no trouble.|||It is not too bad. Hold then new one up while you take the old one off, see where the wires go into the old and put in the same place on the new. it is pretty basic, but you definately want to pay attention.|||easy....just pay close attention to the wire color and the terminal screw label..... i.e..... there will be a white wire and it is attached to the screw marked W on the thermostat... write it down!|||Just one thing to know the thermostat that you are going to remove may have a Mercury switch in it that you do not want to throw in the garbage.It should be taken to a hazardous material waste station or maybe your heating oil supplier will take it and dispose of it.If it has a Mercury switch it have a small glass bulb with silver liquid[Mercury] in it.|||yes... be sure to mark the wires to corresponding position on the old one and try to plan how you%26#039;ll install the new one BEFORE removing the old one (make a sketch if necessary and denote the colors of wire). pretty straightforward but plan the installation first to avoid rework.
Heat/cool ,4 wires. There should be a jumper that goes from RC to RH, on some models. But, White to W terminal, Red to R terminal (Jumper to RH and RC) Green to G terminal and yellow or blue to the Y terminal. Level and secure to wall with anchors. Read instructions on t-stat for any specifics, but basically that is it. Change 1 wire at a time from thermostat to thermostat. Shut off power to oil burner before starting.|||Very easy.
There%26#039;s one red wire, and one white wire. (If you have central a/c, there will be an additional yellow wire.)
Follow the schematic in the instructions for the correct placement of the wires.|||If the thermostat is modern, it will accommodate both heating and cooling and will include a clock for night setbacks. So I%26#039;d say it%26#039;s about twice as complicated as an ordinary fixture, closer to a dual-switched circuit. But there are detailed directions in the box. I am sure that if you follow them carefully, you will have no trouble.|||It is not too bad. Hold then new one up while you take the old one off, see where the wires go into the old and put in the same place on the new. it is pretty basic, but you definately want to pay attention.|||easy....just pay close attention to the wire color and the terminal screw label..... i.e..... there will be a white wire and it is attached to the screw marked W on the thermostat... write it down!|||Just one thing to know the thermostat that you are going to remove may have a Mercury switch in it that you do not want to throw in the garbage.It should be taken to a hazardous material waste station or maybe your heating oil supplier will take it and dispose of it.If it has a Mercury switch it have a small glass bulb with silver liquid[Mercury] in it.|||yes... be sure to mark the wires to corresponding position on the old one and try to plan how you%26#039;ll install the new one BEFORE removing the old one (make a sketch if necessary and denote the colors of wire). pretty straightforward but plan the installation first to avoid rework.
Changing thermostat on 98 Honda CRV?
Folks, can a DOY change the thermostat on a Honda CRV? I%26#039;d appreciate a link that shows the exact location of the thing. Thanks.|||www.v6performance.net|||Bottom radiator hose at the engine.|||try collegehillshonda.com or youtube.com
Guide on changing thermostat on a 82 Oldsmobile cutlass supreme?
if it is the tech four engine it is simple just take the cap off and pull out the thermostat and put in the new one. no tools required. but do it with the engine cool. if it is the six cylinder it is where the top radiator hose connects to the engine. you will have to remove the 2 bolts holing the neck that the hose connects to and lift it off to get at the thermostat. pull out the old one and clean the area that the neck seats to and the neck itself. then install the new thermostat and gasket (its a good idea to use silicon sealant too) and set the neck back on . replace the bolts and re fill with antifreeze and your done
My kids keep changing the thermostat and i was wondering if there was a way to disable the dial or get a new?
My kids are having a blast changing the thermostat and it is using too much gas, heh. I was wonder if there was a way to disable the dial (its a old thermostat) so no matter where they moved it, it would always heat to a specific temperature. Also, if that is not a possiablity, maybe there is something new i could get? I dont know. Thanks a million|||my dad got this box where u put it over the thermostat and u had to have a key to open it|||If you buy a new one they are lockable and you will have to know a code. Programable for certain times as well to save electricity. Also very easy to install, just match colored wires. But be sure to read directions.|||I used to do that as a kid!! My parents used to tell me put on a sweater (in the winter) or go to someone else%26#039;s house for air-conditioning (in the summer)
You should get a plastic cover with a lock like they have at schools. It might look gaudy but they%26#039;d get the message.|||You can buy a clear plastic case that fits over the thermostat and locks, so they can%26#039;t access it. The college I attend has this installed over the thermostat in some of the rooms, so we can%26#039;t adjust the temps! Just check with Lowe%26#039;s or Home Depot.|||I worked at a place that was so hot inside, we kept lowering the thermostat because, we could%26#039;nt work, the old women that worked there were always cold. The Company put one of those clear lockable boxes on the thermostat so that nobody could touch it, there are vent holes in the box so that the air temp can be monitored by the thermostat. All we did was insert a straightened paper clip into the vent holes to lower the thermostat lever, they could never figure out what we were doing... DUH !|||There are covers you can put over them. You see them a lot at large company%26#039;s so employee%26#039;s can%26#039;t change the temperature, heat or cold.
You can purchase the same at your local hardware store. These covers aren%26#039;t used only for commercial use. It%26#039;s an inexpensive way to keep little fingers off the thermostat.|||If you dont want to do a lot of home rewiring or anything, buy one of those small hinge type covers with a key lock, its not gorgeous, but its cheap.|||You%26#039;ve got a few valid answers; all you need do is award the 10; and shop.
Certainly covers that lock are sold for commercial establishments and will adapt to residential. Metal/ Plastic won%26#039;t matter. I do suggest the key version as opposed to any combination, or keypad with a code.
You should get a plastic cover with a lock like they have at schools. It might look gaudy but they%26#039;d get the message.|||You can buy a clear plastic case that fits over the thermostat and locks, so they can%26#039;t access it. The college I attend has this installed over the thermostat in some of the rooms, so we can%26#039;t adjust the temps! Just check with Lowe%26#039;s or Home Depot.|||I worked at a place that was so hot inside, we kept lowering the thermostat because, we could%26#039;nt work, the old women that worked there were always cold. The Company put one of those clear lockable boxes on the thermostat so that nobody could touch it, there are vent holes in the box so that the air temp can be monitored by the thermostat. All we did was insert a straightened paper clip into the vent holes to lower the thermostat lever, they could never figure out what we were doing... DUH !|||There are covers you can put over them. You see them a lot at large company%26#039;s so employee%26#039;s can%26#039;t change the temperature, heat or cold.
You can purchase the same at your local hardware store. These covers aren%26#039;t used only for commercial use. It%26#039;s an inexpensive way to keep little fingers off the thermostat.|||If you dont want to do a lot of home rewiring or anything, buy one of those small hinge type covers with a key lock, its not gorgeous, but its cheap.|||You%26#039;ve got a few valid answers; all you need do is award the 10; and shop.
Certainly covers that lock are sold for commercial establishments and will adapt to residential. Metal/ Plastic won%26#039;t matter. I do suggest the key version as opposed to any combination, or keypad with a code.
Does constantly changing the thermostat temperature 2-3 degrees affect electricity usage?
Would changing the thermostat back up and down 2-3 degrees affect electricity usage rather than keeping it at one temperature. For example, my roomates like to change the thermostat around 2 degrees lower at night then change it up again in the day.
I always thought this would cause the AC to work harder to maintain the temperature, thus leading to a high electricity bill.|||The rule of thumb is that you can save about 3% on your heating bill for every degree that you set back your thermostat|||yes
we did a 2 yr study on changing the temp at night and turning it back up in the am, with a programmable thermostat,
we dropped the temp 5 deg at night, then back to 70 at day time
for 1 yr then we removed the programmable one and went to a standard thermostat, and left it at 69 deg 24/7
we saved over $1,000 a yr on the electric and fuel bill with the standard thermostat.|||Ultimately depends on the time of year. I%26#039;m assuming we%26#039;re talking about the summer because you said AC. If you turn the thermostat higher during the day (when its hotter), then the AC unit will work less often, thus saving you energy. At the night when it%26#039;s cooler, even though the AC thermostat has been lowered, the AC unit doesn%26#039;t have to compete with the sun%26#039;s direct heat which makes it cheaper to operate.|||Any time you set your thermostat down you save money. Anytime you raise you thermostat it is costing you money.
If you set it down 2 degs you are saving money. If you set it back up to the original setting you will be right back where you started if you hadn%26#039;t set it down. You save money during the time it is set down and you spend the same money during the time it is set back to the original setting. A net saving.
People so think otherwise have never sat down and done the math.|||adjusting your thermostat 2-3 will only save you money.
adjusting it 10+ is where your theory baffles many. but it still saves money...
the lower the thermostat the more money you will save no matter how much you change it.|||It is all relative . So it all averages out.|||when it goes lower it saves you money that is what you are suppose to do 5degrees is better|||When you ask, %26quot;Does constantly changing the thermostat....affect electricity usage?%26quot;, the answer is %26quot;Yes, it saves electricity usage.%26quot; Any time you turn something off, you save, and raising the AC thermostat setting will turn the AC off for longer periods of time. You cannot save more than when the unit is off.
However, when you ask, %26quot;Does changing the thermostat cause the AC to work harder to maintain the temperature?%26quot;, again the answer is %26quot;Yes, it will be harder to maintain the desired temp.%26quot; This is where most people think that the catch up time causes the unit to run more and therefore use more electricity. When outside temps are changing, it is harder to illustrate my next point and make comparisons. So, first, consider the following.
Let%26#039;s say that the outside temp maintains an outside temp of 100 degrees F. Let%26#039;s also say that the AC in question is able to cool the house to 78 degrees F, and no lower, as long as the outside temp maintains 100 deg. F. If I keep my thermostat at 77 degrees, my AC will run 24/7, and will never turn off. If I raise my thermostat two or three degrees, my AC will enjoy SOME off time, and therefore save SOME electricity. As the thermostat setting is lowered, longer run times will be required of the AC to maintain the lower temp.
The above scenario is almost exactly the way it has been where I live. When the outside temp is approx. 95 to 100, the inside temp of my house would never get below 78 degrees. When my wife and I leave home in the morning, if we keep the thermostat at 72 degrees, the house would be at 78 when I got home in the early afternoon. At night when the outside temp lowers to 70 or 75 degrees, there obviously will be a point when the thermostat will be satisfied and turn off the AC. However the lower the thermostat setting, again the longer the AC will run. I thought that if I kept the AC on all day with the thermostat setting as low as 72, that%26#039;s the temp I would enjoy when I got home. My AC was never going to be able to reach that temp anyway.
Notice the following quote from Michael Bluejay%26#039;s website:
%26quot;It%26#039;s a myth that leaving the AC on while you%26#039;re away at work uses less energy than turning it on when you get home. Here%26#039;s why:
Heat goes to where it%26#039;s not. That%26#039;s why heat from outside goes into your cooler home. With the AC off, at some point your house will be so hot it can%26#039;t absorb any more heat. When you come home and turn the AC on, the AC removes all that heat.
But if the AC is on when you%26#039;re gone, then you%26#039;ve turned your house into a heat magnet. But keeping it artificially cool, there%26#039;s no limit to the amount of heat it can absorb. It can always absorb more heat. And your AC has to remove that heat constantly. Your AC kicks in and removes some of that heat, then the house is cooler so it sucks in more heat from outside, so your AC kicks in again and removes that heat, and so on.
This means that throughout the day, your house has absorbed way more than one houseful of heat. And your AC had to remove it all. By contrast, with the AC off all day, then it has to remove just one houseful of heat when you come home and turn it on.
Let%26#039;s say you leave the AC off, and your house absorbs 20k BTU%26#039;s of heat and then stops, because that%26#039;s all it can absorb.
Now let%26#039;s say that you have the AC running instead. The house absorbs 5k BTU%26#039;s of heat, so the AC kicks in and removes it. Then it absorbs another 5k BTU%26#039;s, and your AC kicks in and removes that. Repeat that process several times during the day.
The actual numbers will vary, and I haven%26#039;t tested this to see exactly how much the penalty for leaving the AC on during the day is, but there is zero question that running the AC all the time uses more energy than turning it on when you get home. This is not a gray area, it%26#039;s simple physics, and no person with any knowledge of this subject disputes it. Running the AC when you%26#039;re not home wastes energy, period.%26quot;
I hope this helps.
I always thought this would cause the AC to work harder to maintain the temperature, thus leading to a high electricity bill.|||The rule of thumb is that you can save about 3% on your heating bill for every degree that you set back your thermostat|||yes
we did a 2 yr study on changing the temp at night and turning it back up in the am, with a programmable thermostat,
we dropped the temp 5 deg at night, then back to 70 at day time
for 1 yr then we removed the programmable one and went to a standard thermostat, and left it at 69 deg 24/7
we saved over $1,000 a yr on the electric and fuel bill with the standard thermostat.|||Ultimately depends on the time of year. I%26#039;m assuming we%26#039;re talking about the summer because you said AC. If you turn the thermostat higher during the day (when its hotter), then the AC unit will work less often, thus saving you energy. At the night when it%26#039;s cooler, even though the AC thermostat has been lowered, the AC unit doesn%26#039;t have to compete with the sun%26#039;s direct heat which makes it cheaper to operate.|||Any time you set your thermostat down you save money. Anytime you raise you thermostat it is costing you money.
If you set it down 2 degs you are saving money. If you set it back up to the original setting you will be right back where you started if you hadn%26#039;t set it down. You save money during the time it is set down and you spend the same money during the time it is set back to the original setting. A net saving.
People so think otherwise have never sat down and done the math.|||adjusting your thermostat 2-3 will only save you money.
adjusting it 10+ is where your theory baffles many. but it still saves money...
the lower the thermostat the more money you will save no matter how much you change it.|||It is all relative . So it all averages out.|||when it goes lower it saves you money that is what you are suppose to do 5degrees is better|||When you ask, %26quot;Does constantly changing the thermostat....affect electricity usage?%26quot;, the answer is %26quot;Yes, it saves electricity usage.%26quot; Any time you turn something off, you save, and raising the AC thermostat setting will turn the AC off for longer periods of time. You cannot save more than when the unit is off.
However, when you ask, %26quot;Does changing the thermostat cause the AC to work harder to maintain the temperature?%26quot;, again the answer is %26quot;Yes, it will be harder to maintain the desired temp.%26quot; This is where most people think that the catch up time causes the unit to run more and therefore use more electricity. When outside temps are changing, it is harder to illustrate my next point and make comparisons. So, first, consider the following.
Let%26#039;s say that the outside temp maintains an outside temp of 100 degrees F. Let%26#039;s also say that the AC in question is able to cool the house to 78 degrees F, and no lower, as long as the outside temp maintains 100 deg. F. If I keep my thermostat at 77 degrees, my AC will run 24/7, and will never turn off. If I raise my thermostat two or three degrees, my AC will enjoy SOME off time, and therefore save SOME electricity. As the thermostat setting is lowered, longer run times will be required of the AC to maintain the lower temp.
The above scenario is almost exactly the way it has been where I live. When the outside temp is approx. 95 to 100, the inside temp of my house would never get below 78 degrees. When my wife and I leave home in the morning, if we keep the thermostat at 72 degrees, the house would be at 78 when I got home in the early afternoon. At night when the outside temp lowers to 70 or 75 degrees, there obviously will be a point when the thermostat will be satisfied and turn off the AC. However the lower the thermostat setting, again the longer the AC will run. I thought that if I kept the AC on all day with the thermostat setting as low as 72, that%26#039;s the temp I would enjoy when I got home. My AC was never going to be able to reach that temp anyway.
Notice the following quote from Michael Bluejay%26#039;s website:
%26quot;It%26#039;s a myth that leaving the AC on while you%26#039;re away at work uses less energy than turning it on when you get home. Here%26#039;s why:
Heat goes to where it%26#039;s not. That%26#039;s why heat from outside goes into your cooler home. With the AC off, at some point your house will be so hot it can%26#039;t absorb any more heat. When you come home and turn the AC on, the AC removes all that heat.
But if the AC is on when you%26#039;re gone, then you%26#039;ve turned your house into a heat magnet. But keeping it artificially cool, there%26#039;s no limit to the amount of heat it can absorb. It can always absorb more heat. And your AC has to remove that heat constantly. Your AC kicks in and removes some of that heat, then the house is cooler so it sucks in more heat from outside, so your AC kicks in again and removes that heat, and so on.
This means that throughout the day, your house has absorbed way more than one houseful of heat. And your AC had to remove it all. By contrast, with the AC off all day, then it has to remove just one houseful of heat when you come home and turn it on.
Let%26#039;s say you leave the AC off, and your house absorbs 20k BTU%26#039;s of heat and then stops, because that%26#039;s all it can absorb.
Now let%26#039;s say that you have the AC running instead. The house absorbs 5k BTU%26#039;s of heat, so the AC kicks in and removes it. Then it absorbs another 5k BTU%26#039;s, and your AC kicks in and removes that. Repeat that process several times during the day.
The actual numbers will vary, and I haven%26#039;t tested this to see exactly how much the penalty for leaving the AC on during the day is, but there is zero question that running the AC all the time uses more energy than turning it on when you get home. This is not a gray area, it%26#039;s simple physics, and no person with any knowledge of this subject disputes it. Running the AC when you%26#039;re not home wastes energy, period.%26quot;
I hope this helps.
Changing thermostat on 1999 Chevy Lumina?
My engine is overheating. I guess this is a common problem with my 1999 Chevy Lumina. I thought that I might be leaking coolant, but I am not. The coolant level is full. Multiple people have told me to try changing the thermostat. I have a friend that will do it in couple days, but I%26#039;m impatient and would like to make an attempt myself. Does anybody know where this thermostat is located? Is this a fairly simple job? Thank you.|||is that a 3.1 V-6? remove the air intake duct from your throttle body. next, remove the wire connectors from your throttle body and remove the throttle cables. remove the 2 - 13mm bolts securing the throttle body to the upper intake. after removal of the throttle body, the thermostat housing is just below it, right inside the exhaust crossover. there are 2 - 13mm bolts holding it in. the top one is easy with a box end wrench. do now remove the bottom bolt all the way, back it out enough to remove the therm housing. the housing is slotted so it slides over the bolt. install a new thermostat and top off the coolant. bleed the air out and you should be good to go
99 malibu v6 changing thermostat looking for details or website on how to remove the throttle body to acess it
or if there is an easier way i already have the airbox off i have the brace for the throttle off and need to know what else or what other nuts or things i can take off...or if u you know a website step by step how to do it....or if you know of a diagram of the throttle.....im trying to do this and kind of in the dark with this....|||Remove the throttle body, there is only four bolts that hold it on, it looks more difficult than it actually is, lemme guess you go the front bolt out and cant get the back one.|||what helped me remove the throttle body was the haynes automotive repair manual which i bought at auto zone, there inexpensive and got great instructions and illustrations. just take your time and dont loose the little screws from the throttle body. if you do have to remove the throttle body you might clean it with about two cans of throttle body cleaner. gd lk.
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